THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. G9 



not at any time be subjected to a very low temperature — even when 

 in a dormant state. 



Caladium culture is so simple, that we need only refer very briefly 

 to this part of the subject ; and in so doing, we would ask the 

 uninitiated to go with us to the pottiug-bench some time in the 

 month of March — not particular to a day, but generally about the 

 beginning, as about that time some of the earliest bulbs will be 

 showing indications of starting themselves. Here, then, we turn 

 out all our bulbs, carefully examine them, in order to see if any 

 parts are decaying, which we seldom find to be the case, but if so, 

 we at once remove them, and rub the parts with chalk or charcoal 

 dust, gently taking off any old roots, decayed leaf-stalks, etc. We 

 then proceed to select some small pots, regulating the size of the 

 pots according to the size of the bulbs. These pots we have well 

 crocked, generally placing a thin layer of sphagnum moss over the 

 crocks, and filling up with soil, consisting of about equal parts good 

 turfy loam, leaf-mould, or peat and sand, leaving depth enough for 

 the bulbs, and about a quarter of an inch of the soil over their 

 crowns ; if there is any appearance of decay, we surround the bulbs 

 with charcoal-dust and silver-sand. This mixture of soil we like 

 to have in good potting condition, i. e., neither wet nor dry. When 

 potted, we take them to a well-prepared propagating frame, and 

 place them in a moist temperature of about 75 3 Fahrenheit, giving 

 them little or no water until they begin to start. This we would 

 have the amateur observe, for should any appearance of decay be 

 found, watering much at this stage would assuredly prove fatal if 

 the bulbs were not moving. In a few weeks they will have filled 

 up the pots with roots, and will require shifting. At this shift we 

 generally use large pots for specimens, crocking them in the same 

 manner as before, using two parts rich loam, one part well-decom- 

 posed cow or sheep dung, and one part leaf-mould and sand. With 

 this we fill up to within a few inches of the rims of the pots ; we 

 then place the strongest plants in the centre, surrounding them 

 with those of a smaller size, so that when finished the surface of 

 the soil will be at least one inch or more beneath the level of the 

 top of the pots. 



This space we find, when they are freely growing, is of great 

 benefit to the specimen plants, when filled with thoroughly-decom- 

 posed cow-dung and a sprinkling of charcoal-dust, to which we add 

 a little loam as a top-dressing. Into this surface-dressing the roots 

 will soon find their way, being freely emitted from the junction of 

 the leaf-stalks with the bulbs. Presuming, then, that the plants 

 and pots are now placed in their summer quarters, having a moist 

 growing temperature of from 70° to S0 J Fahrenheit, and moderately 

 shaded, they progress rapidly. From this time, until they attain 

 their greatest beauty, we copiously supply them with weak guano 

 water. Caladium Bclleymeii and Argyrites we find do best when a 

 little lighter soil is used, and not quite so much guano water. We 

 would here caution the inexperienced against the injudicious use of 

 this stimulant. Half an ounce to a gallon of water will be ample 

 when regularly applied upon such rich surface-dressings, always 



