150 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



florist, as there is in cultivating plants which show that the cultivator 

 has some taste and judgment. I throw out these hints now, for 

 there is yet time for seed-saving in a systematic manner, if there 

 were a few specimens started late ; otherwise, it is hest to give up the 

 project, for there is plenty of good seed to be bought in the trade. 



As soon as the seed is ripe, which is generally the case in July, 

 it should be sown in pans, filled with equal parts of peat, loam, and 

 leaf-mould, with the addition of a moderate quantity of silver sand, 

 and a good drainage in the bottom. 



The compost must be broken up rather small, without sifting, so 

 that the young plants can be taken up, when the time arrives for 

 potting them, without injuring the roots. The seed-pans should be 

 placed in a close part of the stove or cucumber-house, where they 

 will have the benefit of a mean temperature of 75°. As the young 

 foliage begins to show nicely above the surface, a light position, with 

 rather more air, and not quite so warm, will be more suitable for 

 them. Great caution is necessary in watering at this stage, for the 

 young roots will not take kindly to sour stuff, and the plants have 

 to remain some time in the seed-bed. By November the corms will 

 have attained considerable dimensions, and be ready for potting off 

 separately. The same soil must be used as before, and the plants 

 lifted carefully and potted firm, with corms on the surface, in small 

 60's. The weather will not permit much air at this season, but 

 they should be placed near the glass, and a growing temperature of 

 55° or 60° maintained. As the days lengthen, a rise of five degrees 

 may be allowed, with more liberal ventilation. 



Early in May, remove the plants to a cold frame in a rather 

 shady position, and keep them growing steadily until the end of 

 August or beginning of September. At this stage they will require 

 shifting into the blooming-pots, which should be either five or six- 

 inch ; the largest size should only be used for the very largest 

 plants, as they do very little good if overpotted. 



We make a slight alteration in the compost at this stage, by 

 taking away half the leaf-mould, and replacing it with the same 

 quantity of fresh horse-droppings, dry enough to mix readily. The 

 cold frame will be the best place for a month or six weeks, as it can 

 be kept rather close, to help the roots to get established quickly in 

 their new quarters. 



Before proceeding any farther, it will not be altogether out of 

 place to say that the soil must be light and rich, for it is an utter 

 impossibility to grow cyclamens successfully in close, compact stuff, 

 through which the roots cannot permeate readily. 



Aery little remains to be said beyond what is known to everyone 

 who has any knowledge of plant-growing. Early in October, remove 

 the stock to the greenhouse, Avhere they will have sufficient air 

 without being exposed to such cold currents as are required by 

 New Holland plants ; they must be near the glass, and properly 

 attended to with respect to water. As we are bound to grow them 

 by hundreds at Sion, I have a deep pit heated with hot w r ater, and 

 a stage close to the glass, set apart especially for them. A genial 

 temperature of about SO is kept up with moderate ventilation, until 



