138 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE 



should be stood in a tub of water long enough to soak the ball through. Shift and 

 stop fuchsias and petunias ; water them with manure-water as they get pot-bound. 

 Expose pelargoniums for a week or so after they go out of flower, and then cut 

 back and shake out, and repot as soon as they are nicely started into growth. 



Stove. — The great bulk of the orchidaceous plants will now be in flower, and 

 every means, consistent with the health of the plants, must be adopted to preserve 

 the freshness and beauty of the flowers as long as possible. A cool, dry atmosphere is 

 necessary for this purpose. Shift those in the hottest house into the cool house, and 

 those from the cool house into the greenhouse, where they can be shaded and kept 

 close ; for, on no account, must the plants be exposed to currents of air. Plenty of 

 moisture at the roots, and in the atmosphere, will be necessary for growing plants. 

 Put in cuttings of the ordinary stove plants, and shift on those already rooted. 

 Gesneras and other plants, intended for winter blooming, must soon have their last 

 shift. Shade during bright sunshine, and place those in flower by themselves, so 

 that the flowers receive no injury from the syringing, which has now become a daily 

 necessity. Ventilate freely, and shut up early in the afternoon. 



Kitchen Garden. — The last week or two of warm weather has made the weeds 

 grow with great rapidity, and every exertion must be made to keep them down now, 

 or they will till the ground with seeds, which will give a world of trouble throughout 

 the summer. Thin out all permanent seed-beds, such as onions, carrots, etc., and 

 plant out broccoli, cauliflowers, cabbage, kales, etc., for the winter, as the plants grow 

 large enough to transplant, before they get too much crowded. Sow scarlet runners, 

 dwarf French beans, beet, turnips, spinach, endive, and lettuce ; the two last should 

 be sown where they are to remain, to prevent their running to seed so quickly, as is 

 the case when sown in beds and transplanted. Also sow marrow peas, and earth up 

 and stick those already forward enough. Peas do best sown in trenches through 

 summer ; they should be made in much the same manner as for celery, but rather 

 broader, and not quite so deep. Prick out the late sown celery, and make trenches, 

 and plant out the earliest batch. Shade with a few branches of evergreens for a 

 few days after planting, and keep well supplied with water. 



Fruit Garden. — The work of disbudding the wall-trees must be carried on 

 vigorously now, but without denuding the trees too much at one time ; go over 

 them, and remove the fore-right shoots, and then begin again, and remove those not 

 required for training in. Proceed cautiously with thinning the fruit until the end of 

 the month. Bush and pyramid trees must have their shoots thinned out, where too 

 crowded, and those remaining pinched back to the third or fourth leaf. Remove 

 the runners from the strawberry plants directly they push, if not wanted for lay- 

 ering, or the parent plants will soon get choked up with the j'oung plants. Wash all the 

 trees on the walls, and those trained as pyramids, frequently with the garden engine. 



Forcing. — Inside vine borders must be liberally supplied with w r ater, where the 

 crops are swelling, and the atmosphere kept moist by throwing water on the paths, 

 and sprinkling the bed and walls. Where the grapes are colouring, give abundant 

 ventilation, and keep the atmosphere dry. The crops should be watched, and the 

 border have a good soaking just before the grapes commence colouring, so that no 

 more is required until that process is finished. Shift on young vines in pots, and help 

 those bearing young crops with manure-water. Peaches, nectarines, cherries, and 

 figs, swelling fruit, to have an increased temperature, with plenty of water at the 

 roots, and a thorough syringing twice a day. Crops of tlKse in a more advanced 

 stage, which are beginning to ripen, must have less moisture above, and more below. 

 Cucumbers and melons require regular attention in stopping and training. Where 

 the heat is maintained by means of hot manure, add fresh linings directly it begins 

 to decline. Give plenty of air, to render shading unnecessary. The pines in the 

 fruit ing-house to have an abundance of atmospheric humidity, to enable the fruit to 

 swell freely. Shift any young suckers that are pot-bound, and till one of the frames 

 lately emptied of bedding stuff with tan, and plunge these and other young 

 successionals in it, to give more room for large plants. Pines, in all stages, are now 

 growing freely, and will need more water than heretofore. 



Pits and Frames. — Give all the air possible to vegetable marrows, tomatoes, 

 ridge cucumbers, and chilies. It is a capital plan, where any of these subjects are 

 required early, to shift them into eight-inch pots, and 1-eep them growing until the 

 time arrives for planting out ; it r.iakes a month's difference in their time of coming 

 into bearing, when strong plants are turned out, instead of poor little starved ones. 



