124 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



useful for flowering in the autumn. Pot hard-wooded plants that require a shift, 

 and harden off those that have finished their growth, preparatory to going out of 

 doors for the summer. 



Stove. — Cut down hegonias gone out of flower, and repot. Shift on the orna- 

 mental-leaved kinds. Achimenes and gloxinias, repot before they get pot-bound. 

 Keep the former near the glass, to prevent them drawing. Continue to shift 

 orchids that require repotting, and divide those the stock ot which it is desired to 

 increase. Maintain a thoroughly moist atmosphere by throwing plenty of water on 

 the floor, but avoid syringing them for the present. Shut up early, and use as little 

 fire-heat as possible. Train specimen plants of a climbing habit, such as Stephanotis, 

 as fast as they make new growth, to prevent their getting out of form. All the 

 plants that require a shift must have it at once, as better growth will be made in the 

 fresh soil than in that which is now worn out ; syringe freely. 



Kitchen Garden. — Like last month, an unusual amount of forethought and 

 activity is required in this department just now. Old stumps of winter greens, that 

 are likely to produce a few more gatherings, should be taken up, and laid in by their 

 heels in some spare corner, and the ground they are now occupying turned up. 

 Plant out cabbage and lettuce raised in cold frame. Cauliflowers from the frames 

 should be planted out the first week of this month ; sow for late autumn supplies. 

 Dress asparagus beds ; sow for main crops. Beet, broccoli, cabbage, cardoons, 

 carrots, celeriac, celery for late crop (prick out early sown), chicory, endive, kidney 

 beans (towards the end of the month), parsnips, salsafy, scorzonera. For successional 

 crops — lettuce, radishes, cress, mustard, spinach, turnips, peas, and other vegetables ; 

 plant out crops from the seed beds when large enough. Keep the hoe at work amongst 

 crops of all kinds. Earth up and stick peas, to prevent their getting blown about. 

 Seeds of sweet and pot herbs that still remain unsown must be got in at once. 

 Those sown in heat should be pricked off into small pots or cold frame, to well 

 harden off before planting out. Prepare trenches for celery, and put at least six 

 inches of good i - otten manure in the bottom, and just cover with soil. The spaces 

 between the rows may be occupied with lettuces and radishes. Get in all crops that 

 ought to have been sown last month as early as possible, for every day adds to the 

 risk of the crops coming to perfection. Seakale for forcing can be raised in one 

 season, if the small side-roots, or " thongs," are now planted in rows in good rich 

 soil. This is also a good time for sowing seed of this vegetable. Remove flower- 

 spikes of rhubarb, unless it is intended to save seed, for they weaken the roots. All 

 salading, like lettuce, endive, and radishes, must have rich soil after this season, 

 otherwise they will make a slow growth, and be wanting in that crisp succulence so 

 essential to them. Small salading is of little service through the summer, unless 

 grown in a shady position, in a cold frame, or under handlights. Potatoes in heavy 

 cold soils must now be planted. Protect early kinds now peeping through the 

 ground, by drawing a little soil over them. 



Fruit Garden. — All pruning ought to be finished before this, with the exception 

 of the fig, which must be done early this month. Continue to protect peaches and 

 nectarines ; care, however, must be exercised, so that the young growth is not 

 drawn weak and spindly through too thick a covering. If blinds of tiffany or canvas 

 are used, roll them up during the day, but where branches of fir or fern are used, 

 about half the quantity should now be taken off. When coddled too much, the 

 young shoots suffer considerably when fully exposed. Thin out apricots, and dis- 

 bud ; but proceed cautiously and gradually, so as not to produce too great a check. 

 Lay long litter from the stable between the strawberry rows, which will serve the 

 double purpose of strengthening the plants with the salts washed out of it, and at 

 the same time keep the fruit clean. Remove all runners that are not wanted for 

 layering ; they only rob the plants, impoverish the soil, and take U2) more time in 

 clearing them away after they once get rooted into the soil. 



Forcing. — Cucumbers and melons must be carefully handled just now. Hang 

 mats or canvas over the openings during the prevalence of north or east winds. 

 Shut up early in the day, and give the foliage a moderate syringing before doing so. 

 See that the bed is a proper degree of moisture throughout its depth, and if it 

 requires watering, use water at a temperature of 75'. Where the bottom-heat is 

 supplied entirely by fire heat, particular attention must be paid to this point in their 

 culture. Pay frequent attention to stopping, training, and regulating the shoots. 

 Fertilize the female flowers of the melon. The temperature of the various vineries 



