166 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



as a decorative plant besides growing them in. pots. Some of the 

 fast-growing varieties can be treated as pillar plants by training up 

 the pillars of a conservatory, or as ordinary climbers along the 

 rafters of a greenhouse. 



By what system of training are the plant and flowers seen most 

 favourably ? In my opinion, the pyramid style claims the award, 

 as the majority of the varieties are naturally inclined to that style 

 of growth, though they vary in constitution, like other florists' 

 flowers. Some have a disposition to flower in a dwarf state, and no 

 skill or art can make them do otherwise ; others, on the contrary, 

 though they will make rampant growth, no inducement can get 

 them with satisfaction to concentrate their growth into a single 

 stem or pyramid form, emitting, as they will, a quantity of shoots or 

 suckers from the root. When you have made yourself acquainted 

 with their various habits, then encourage them to a hearty growth. 

 The standard form — that is, allowing a naked stem to extend some 

 seven or eight feet in height, and then to form a bush, umbrella- 

 fashion — is adapted for intermixing with large plants, as camellias, 

 etc., in a house ; but for any other purpose I do not advocate this 

 method of training. 



The Fuchsia is subject to the attacks of insects, which at times 

 will sadly disfigure the foliage, and cramp the progress of the plant, 

 if not watched and got rid of as soon as they appear. The cuckoo- 

 spit may be detected by a frothy substance here and there deposited 

 on the plants ; destroy it with your thumb and finger if possible, 

 as you cannot always do so with certainty by fumigating, though 

 the latter process will kill the common aphis. Many of the sorts 

 are very liable, if grown in a dry atmosphere, to red spider ; some- 

 times in a few days it will deprive them of all their healthy foliage. 

 To avoid this when in flower, give them plenty of air, and keep the 

 tops of the plants some distance from the roof of the house ; and do 

 not neglect their supply of water when they have filled the soil with 

 rootlets. 



In order to obtain large plants, and get them in flower for May 

 and June exhibitions, we must commence to grow them not later 

 than November. Bottom-heat, I maintain, is essential for the well- 

 being of the plants. In the absence of any other means of affording 

 it, use tan or hot manure well prepared. I have witnessed them 

 do well in the absence of bottom-heat, but the house was small, and 

 erected on an elevation affording plenty of light ; and, from the 

 regular mode in which it was supplied with heat, combined with the 

 size ot the house, the air within was so heated as to keep the soil 

 constantly warm ; but it is not every kind of structure that is so 

 adapted. Having grown them with and without bottom-heat during 

 the winter months, I must decidedly give the preference to the 

 former. That plants may thrive, the root action should be so ex- 

 cited as to keep pace with the outward growth. When you perceive 

 signs of flower, then dispense with bottom-heat. The final potting 

 of your plants should be completed by the first week in February, 

 if intended for flowering early. 



When they have fulfilled your object — that of exhibiting them 



