THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 203 



sand added. For the first potting, I use three-inch pots, in which 

 the stock is grown until the following spring, and then shifted 

 into either five or six-inch pots, according to the strength of the 

 individual bulbs. These sizes will grow good strong bulbs, and they 

 must make wonderful progress to require a shift into a larger size 

 the following spring. Over-potting, or frequent shifts, are alike 

 injurious to these subjects; a fresh put once in two or three years 

 is quite often enough, and I will undertake to grow better plants 

 that way than can be accomplished by the annual shift so often 

 practised. The Amaryllis is excessively impatient of being dis- 

 turbed at the roots, and without doubt it is a matter of sheer impos- 

 sibility to get well-flowered specimens if they are repotted every 

 year. I shake out a few every year, trim the roots a little, and then 

 repot in fresh soil. By that means I can always keep the collection 

 in condition. I make it a rule not to allow those shifted to flower the 

 season afterwards, so as to give the bulbs time to recover themselves 

 and strengthen. 



To enable the bulb to stand in the same pot for two or three 

 successive years, particular attention must be paid to the drainage. 

 The pots must be carefully crocked, and a few pieces of rough turf 

 placed over the drainage to prevent the soil running down and 

 choking it up. As a rule I put from one to two inches of crocks, 

 broken moderately small, in each pot, and place them in carefully, 

 for I detest the careless way of shooting them in without thought or 

 care. Here I will observe that the pots into which the seedlings 

 are pricked off, should be filled to quite two-thirds of their depth 

 witli crocks, to prevent the existence of the slightest danger from 

 the soil getting too wet at any time. 



"We repot our bulbs that require that attention early in spring, 

 and just before they start into growth. But, bear in mind, that 

 only those which begin to present a starved appearance from being 

 in the pot too long, or those which have their roots out of order 

 from imperfect drainage, should be touched. All the others should 

 be left alone. In passing, it will be well to say that the soil must 

 be pressed in firm at the first, and all subsequent shifts. 



Amaryllis will stand forcing very well, but it is not advisable to 

 start them too early if required for conservatory decoration, as that 

 structure will be too cold for the tender growth and flowers. Gene- 

 rally speaking, we begin about the end of February, and those which 

 show the most prominent signs of activity are started first. In a 

 batch of seedlings the constitution of each individual will differ 

 materially from its fellows, and it is only by close attention to the 

 habit and constitution of each plant that successful results are possible. 

 To keep up a succession, we draft out a batch about every three weeks, 

 as long as they last, and place them in warmth to start, each time select- 

 ing the most forward for pushing on. Theideathatthese require astrong 

 bottom-heat for starting them into growth is wrong altogether. I never 

 plunge or give mine bottom-heat in any way, and 1 have no difficulty in 

 getting them to grow and flower well, at all events, sufficiently so to 

 enable me to take the only two first prizes offered for Amaryllis this 

 season in the metropolis. The collections by means of which I 



