20S THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



observations upon the last-mentioned part of the subject, will not be 

 altogether out of place at this moment. 



I suppose the simple operation of layering runners of this fruit 

 to be familiar to the principal part of my readers ; therefore, it is 

 not necessary for me to enlarge upon it at any length. There are, 

 however, several ways of doing it, or to speak correctly, several 

 modifications of the proper way. Many cultivators fancy that it is 

 of little importance what soil is used for the small pots in which 

 they are layered, and the treatment the plants receive during their 

 stay in them, and a few go to the other extreme, and plunge the pots 

 in the beds. Now, I have no objection to the latter plan being 

 pursued, provided it can be done without injuring the roots of the 

 permanent plants, but it is not necessary, and takes up time that 

 can be more profitably employed. I know scores of gardeners who 

 simply take a few pegs and the empty pots, and dig up the soil out 

 of the beds for filling them, and never dream of using maiden soil 

 until the shift into the fruiting pots. It is a slovenly way, and the 

 plants never make such a strong growth, as they otherwise would do 

 if they had good maiden loam to start in. 



I use the same compost for both runner and fruiting pots, and 

 the only difference made is, that it is used rather rougher for the 

 latter. I am not favourable to the use of too large a proportion of 

 manure in the compost, as it is apt to get sour and pasty towards 

 the winter, and is then in an unfavourable condition for the preser- 

 vation of the roots in good order through that season. I have mine 

 prepared in the proportion of three parts good turfy loam, and one 

 part thoroughly decayed hotbed manure, chopped up rather roughly, 

 and well incorporated. Fresh loam may be used, but that which has 

 been laid by for six or twelve months is preferable. 



The runners should be layered at once, or there will not be time 

 for them to become strong by the autumn. We take the soil and 

 pots (60's), with a few crocks and pegs in a barrow, and fill the 

 pots with soil, as the layering goes on ; and I find it a more expedi- 

 tious method, than when the pots are filled at the potting bench, and 

 carried to the beds with a handbarrow. The stoutest of the first 

 runners should be selected and pegged securely to the surface of the 

 soil, and the second lot which start from the first should be removed. 

 These should be kept well watered, until they are nicely rooted, 

 and then be cut off and placed in a shady position to recover them- 

 selves. In gathering the fruit, care should be taken not to displace 

 the runners or knock over the pots. It is a good plan to layer a 

 hundred or so more than the number required, and then choice can 

 be had of good strong plants, and the weak ones be discarded. 



In about a fortnight from the time of their removal from the 

 parent plants, the whole lot can be shifted into the fruiting pots. I 

 use six-inch or 32 size, and I believe that they produce better crops 

 in that size than any other. Each pot should have an inch depth of 

 moderate-sized pieces of crocks in the bottom, and a thin layer of 

 half-rotten dung spread over them to keep the soil in its place. A 

 few pieces of lumpy soil should then be placed in the bottom, and 

 rammed in firm with the potting stick, and the young plant set upon 



