844 THE FLOKAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



understand. Let us commence with the preparation of the soil. 

 In the first place, the ground must be broken up to a depth of from 

 eighteen to thirty inches, and the bottom spit brought to the surface 

 if it is suitable. Here it will be necessary to observe that should 

 the subsoil be composed of stiff clay or shingly sand, the trenching 

 must be confined to turning over the top spit in the ordinary way, 

 and then breaking up the subsoil and leaving it in the bottom of the 

 trench. Manure is not necessary for newly-planted trees, unless 

 the soil is chiefly composed of hungry sand, and then a light dress- 

 ing of thoroughly-decayed manure will be of service. Very light 

 soils and very heavy soils are not favourable to the production of 

 fine crops of fruit, because in the former the crop ripens prema- 

 turely, and in the other the trees continue growing until late in the 

 autumn, and the wood in consequence is seldom properly matured. 

 Much may, however, be done in counteracting these evils by the 

 application of a dressing of marly clay on the sand, and a coat of 

 sand or road-scrapings on the clay. But very rarely will this be 

 required, for there are but few soils so thoroughly unsuitable for 

 fruit growing. 



The best form of tree for small orshards is either the bush or 

 pyramid, as they can be attended to, and the crop gathered more 

 easily than from standards. In addition, they can be planted closer 

 together, which admits of a larger number of varieties being grown 

 in the same space. In nearly all the directions we see for selecting 

 trees, the necessity of selecting fine regularly trained and well- 

 finished trees is insisted on. This is all very well, but to have the 

 very best trees to be met with in a first-rate nursery, a high price 

 must be paid, which virtually prohibits some hundreds of would-be 

 cultivators indulging in their cherished project. If a few hundred 

 pounds is of no importance, buy the best-finished trees that are to 

 be got ; otherwise, never mind if the trees are grown out of shape, 

 and if they happen to be large and full of wood, so much the better, 

 because there is then a good prospect of getting a speedy return. 

 In other words, beauty is not of much consequence, and ugly 

 trees, with plenty of good wood, are cheap and useful. They should 

 be planted in rows at a distance from each other of about eight or 

 ten feet, which will give them plenty of room, and enable the light 

 and air to reach every particle of wood. Make the holes large 

 enough in diameter to enable the roots to be spread out horizontally, 

 and if it is a clay subsoil, place a few pieces of flat stone in the 

 bottom of the hole to prevent the tap roots striking perpendicularly 

 into it. The roots must not be buried too deep ; six inches of soil 

 above the highest roots being quite sufficient. Spread the roots out 

 carefully, and tread the soil in firm, and finally secure the trees to 

 stout stakes, to prevent the wind loosening them. 



Autumn planting is to be preferred to winter or spring, as the 

 soil is then much warmer, and more favourable for the develop- 

 ment of the roots. Trees planted now, if well set with flower- 

 buds, would, if desired, bear a good crop nest year ; but, unless 

 the trees are strong, it is not wise to compel them to produce a 

 crop the first year after planting. 



