The Weekly Florists' Review* 



313 



with the rest, for a time, but as it did 

 not rain one day after another, we decid- 

 ed to plant our carnations, rain or no 

 rain. On the suggestion of a friend we 

 turned the hose into the carnation path 

 and soaked the ground until it was a 

 wonder it did not leak through into 

 China. After it had dried off somewhat 

 and the plants were nice and fresh, we 

 began digging and we had all the stock 

 planted before we had a rain that 

 amounted to anything. The plants took 

 hold nicely in the houses and went right 

 to growing and by winter you would 

 hardly have known that the summer had 

 been so dry. 



Xow the most interesting part was 

 that a batch of Ethel Crocker that had 

 not received the soaking along with the 

 rest was needed to plant the last bench. 

 and we decided to find out whether the 

 soaking was really a help or not. We 

 got the soil in the bencn in a good moist 

 condition and the first thing in the morn- 

 ing, while the plants were yet fresh, we 

 dug enough to fill the bench. They were, 

 of course, brought right into the cool 

 shed and sprinkled and kept covered un- 

 til they could be planted. You should 

 have seen those plants! The way they 

 took hold of that moist soil reminded one 

 of a half-starved animal, and they were 

 established in less time than those that 

 were soaked in the field. 



Ever since that time we have preferred 

 a moderately dry spell just previous to 

 digging our carnations from the field, 

 believing that as the growth is more nat- 

 ural and the roots are less active there 

 will be less wilting and consequently a 

 quicker renewal of growth. And in case 

 of extreme drought, instead of watering 

 before digging, only dig in the morning 

 before the plants show signs of wilting. 

 or in the evening after they straighten 

 up again. But do not dig while the 

 plants are in a wilted condition. 



I meant to say last week, but forgot 

 it, that we prefer to mix our bone meal 

 into the soil a few days or a week before 

 planting, and give the bed a good water- 

 ing or two before it is planted. It gives 

 the bone a chance to become a part of 

 the soil, and instead of causing the soil 

 to be dry at planting time, it will be in 

 shape for the plants to assimilate as soon 

 as the roots are able to take up food 

 again. We mix from 25 to 35 pounds 

 into a bed of 500 square feet and rake it 

 in well, after which we water and, if 

 planting is not done within a few days, 

 we keep the soil in a fair planting con- 

 dition from that time on by watering 

 lightly each day. 



We use a line stretchedlengthwiseover 

 the center of the bed to plant by, and a 

 stick with notches cut into it to regulate 

 the distance of the plants in the row. 

 After we have our center row planted 

 we use our eyes to get the others straight 

 across the bench as well as lengthwise. 

 A good planter needs no more, and any 

 one who needs more than that is not a 

 good planter, although he may be able 

 to set the plant into the soil just as per- 

 fectly as the other. Some growers mark 

 off the bed like a checkerboard before 

 planting and, while that may insure 

 straight rows if the lines are not oblit- 

 erated, yet we consider it a waste of time 

 when time is valuable. 



There will not be so much dry foliage 

 on your plants now as there is likely to 

 be in a month later, and there will be 

 no need of stopping to pick it off before 

 planting. You will have plenty of time 

 a little later. A. F. J. Baue. 



Standing Wreath of Lilies and Beauties, Base of Cyc 



WATERING FIELD CARNATIONS. 



Much has been written about watering 

 carnations when in the field, or rather 

 about not watering them, as it is claimed 

 that constant or frequent cultivation will 

 produce good plants, even if there be a 

 scarcity of rain. The claim is set up 

 that watering' will induce stem-rot and 

 therefore should be avoided. I suppose it 

 will be conceded that cultivation will not 

 produce moisture. At best, if the culti- 

 vation be shallow enough, a layer of fine 

 soil will be secured at the surface which 

 will prevent rapid evaporation and so aid 

 in conserving the moisture in the soil. It 

 also prevents the growth of fungus at or 

 just below the surface. 



Believing, as I do, that stem-rot arises 

 from the composition of the soil and con- 

 ditions of the fertilizers used, and not 

 from moisture. I have always watered my 

 field carnations as I water them in the 

 houses, when water is needed, using the 

 hose to do it, and have never had stem- 

 rot, either indoors or out. But I am 

 careful not to use much manure in the 

 field, and have the ground broken up 

 at least seven inches deep. Shallow plow- 

 ing won't do. A sprinkling of wood ashes 

 I find is a benefit, if it be done just be- 

 fore cultivation. My soil is high and 

 well drained and is rather light and in- 

 clined to be sandv. J. Y. Lambert. 



Seasonable Hints. 



At this season the grower should keep 

 a sharp lookout for thrips. so they may 

 not secure a lodgment among the young 

 stock. Before the plants begin to bear 

 a crop these insects give little evidence 

 of their presence, and it requires a sharp 



and trained eye to read tiie signs, but as 

 soon as the buds l>egin to develop, their 

 work becomes manifest to even the most 

 inexperienced. 



While infesting all sorts and varieties 

 of roses, thrips commit their most de- 

 structive ravages among Beauties, and to 

 houses containing these the grower should 

 direct his best efforts and attention. 



There are many species of these pests, 

 some of them natives, and many of them 

 imported, and they are all inimical to 

 rose culture under glass. They are all 

 so nearly alike as to make it hard to dis- 

 tinguish them, but as their habits are so 

 much alike, and the methods of treating 

 them so similar, the grower does not need 

 to spend his time in determining their 

 identity. 



Prevention being so much better than 

 cure in this case, rigid precaution against 

 their increase in. and in proximity to, 

 rose houses, and their ii 

 the house among such m 

 manure, litter, etc.. sho 

 the whole summer and la 

 ground near the house- :i 

 ity of soil piles clear of 

 the best preventives. 



If the weeds have been neglected they 

 ought to be cut down at once and burned. 

 It is also a good plan to burn the grass 

 and ground herbage near the houses dur- 

 ing a hot spell. Weeds in the houses, on 

 the paths and underneath the benches, 

 should be strictly looked after and de- 

 stroyed, as these afford both feeding 

 -round and shelter. 



During the growing season and while 

 we are practicing disbudding is the best 

 time to apply the remedies, as we can use 

 more radical measures then than we can 

 apply with either safety or prudence 

 after we allow a crop to come. The buds 



into 



in force 

 ping the 



Dne of 



