86 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



temperature is not at all necessary, and with the aid of a cucumber- 

 frame, or house, for the summer season, and an intermediate house 

 for the winter, they can be grown most satisfactorily. 



The compost used here is prepared by well incorporating together 

 equal parts of turfy loam, fibrous peat, and leaf-mould, with sufficient 

 silver sand to make it feel gritty to the hand. 



Euphorbia splendens is useful to cut from for furnishing flowers 

 for the hair, or the hand bouquet, during the winter months, but it 

 is far less useful and brilliant in colour than the former species, and 

 it must have plenty of room, because the formidable spines with 

 which the stems are armed will lacerate the leaves of all plants they 

 come in contact with. The sap of these plants is poisonous. 



For the assistance of those who care to possess it, it is necessary 

 to add that, instead of propagating a fresh stock every year, as 

 advised for the other species, the plants should be potted on, and 

 neatly trained to stout stakes fixed in the pots. A couple of speci- 

 mens will be quite sufficient for a moderate-sized collection of plants, 

 but E. jacquiniflora should be grown by the dozen wherever a bit of 

 brilliant colour is appreciated in the winter. 



The cultivation of Poinsettia puleherrvma differs somewhat from 

 that of the Euphorbia, and we will now describe it. The cuttings 

 should be struck at the same period as advised for the latter ; but, 

 although they may be grown in the same way, it is decidedly prefer- 

 able to have only one plant in each pot. In taking the cuttings, 

 select the strongest shoots, put them singly in small 60's, and 

 place in a warm corner of the stove, or cucumber or melon- trame. 

 when well-rooted, shift into five-inch pots ; and, if they grow away 

 freely, shift, repot, and use pots one or two sizes larger, as may 

 appear the most desirable. If they do not make very rapid pro- 

 gress after they are put in five-inch pots, it will not be wise to shift 

 them again, because, if over-potted, they will present but a sorry 

 figure at the end of the season. 



If the conservatory is lofty, a few cuttings should be struck 

 earlier, and grown on as vigorously as possible ; for tall specimens 

 with large whorls of bracts have a wonderfully showy appearance 

 intermixed with other plants. 



The best compost in which to grow Poinsettias that I have yet 

 tried is one consisting of two-thirds turfy loam and a third part of 

 equal proportions of leaf-mould and well-decayed cow-dung. A 

 liberal sprinkling of sand must be added, and the pots well drained. 

 In summers like those of 1868 and 1870, the plants may be placed 

 upon a bed of coal-ashes, made up in the open, for about two months. 



Both the Poinsettia and Euphorbia, as they go out of bloom, 

 should be packed rather close together in a warm, dry corner, and 

 very little water administered to the roots, as a long season of rest 

 is most essential. After they have been kept dry for a short time, 

 prune them back, and start into growth about the middle of April. 

 When the young growth is about an inch in length, turn the plants 

 out of the pots, shake nearly all the soil from the roots, and repot 

 in pots of the same size as those from which they were taken out of. 

 Train out the growth, as it becomes necessary, with a few neat 



