52 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



six-inch pots, and from that size into the nine-inch size. At the 

 third shift, when required, put them into pots two or three sizes 

 larger. 



Inside borders may be planted in June with vines obtained from 

 eyes struck the previous March, and the stock set apart for that pur- 

 pose should, if convenient, be put from the small pots into shallow 

 boxes, and then at planting time the sides can be knocked away, 

 and the bottom removed without disturbing the roots. It is better 

 to plant vineries in June with vines struck the previous spring than 

 to wait until the following March, to admit of its being planted with 

 canes twelve months older. But where the vines are too hard, and 

 the house and border in readiness for their reception, I should 

 strongly recommend its being planted some time during March or 

 April with one-year-old vines that were cut close down to the ground, 

 and have when planted about twelve or eighteen inches of new 

 growth. These will start away stronger, and also have two months 

 more of the best part of the growing season in which to make their 

 growth than younger ones planted in June. Therefore, the rods will 

 be much stronger and better matured at the end of the season. 



In preparing a compost for vines when in pots, whether they are 

 to be fruited in them or not, the cultivator should encourage as much 

 as possible the production of short fibrous roots. Hence hot-bed or 

 other manure of a similar character must be used in a sparing man- 

 ner, and where available bone-dust or crushed bones employed 

 instead. Partly decomposed horse-droppings are valuable for ^this 

 purpose, when bones cannot be afforded, as they assist in keeping the 

 compost light and open, whilst at the same time they furnish food 

 for the vines. To render everything as clear as possible, it is neces- 

 sary to say that the most suitable compost is prepared by well incor- 

 porating together four parts turfy loam, one part manure, one part 

 brick-rubbish, and about a third of a part of bone-dust. The pots 

 will require draining effectually, but no more crocks than are abso- 

 lutely necessary must be employed. At the last shifting I should 

 recommend the use of inch bones instead of crocks, especially if the 

 vines are to be fruited in the pots. 



Plunging the pots in a brisk hot-bed after the eyes are struck is 

 not only unnecessary, but positively injurious, and after the first 

 shift the pots should be stood upon a hard surface. "When the vines 

 are grown with the assistance of bottom-heat, the wood is generally 

 soft and pithy, 'and they are usually furnished with thick fleshy 

 " goose-quill " roots, which, if subjected to bad treatment during the 

 winter, will perish. Consequently if they are fruited the following 

 season a large portion of many of the branches will be ruined 

 through the berries shanking. This so-called disease is usually attri- 

 buted to too much atmospheric humidity ; rightly in some instances, 

 but generally it may be ascribed to defective root-action. 



Vines in their first, as in all subsequent stages of growth, should 

 not be crowded closely together, but be placed far enough apart to 

 admit of the stems being fully exposed to the light. By closely 

 following the instructions here given, and during the summer main- 

 taining a free current of air through the house in which they are 



