THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 31 



thrust the hand down to ascertain if the bed is moderately damp. 

 Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Ehubarb to be put in for succession, and 

 to have plenty of water. 



Pits and Frames. — Pot up a few roots of musk and mint. 

 Commence propagating Verbenas, Heliotropes, Lobelias, Salvias, 

 Geraniums, Petunias, and Fuchsias. Sow in cold frame Cauliflower, 

 Broccoli, Shilling's Queen and Early York Cabbage, Hammersmith, 

 Neapolitan, and Cos Lettuce, and also a few hardy annuals to flower 

 early. 



NOTICES TO COEEESPONDENTS. 



Roses. — Rosa may cover the arches and pillars in a few years, but she cannot 

 have roses in the first instance large enough to cover trellises twenty feet high. The 

 Boursaults and Noisettes will no doubt be most valuable for the purpose. The best 

 climbing white is Miss Glegg. The Sempervirens and Ayrshire roses are not to be 

 despised. The boi-ders should be made ready by deep digging and very liberal 

 manuring, and the roses be planted at once. 



Tree Mignonette.— W. B. R. — Tree mignonette is the same plant as we grow 

 in the borders ; to make a tree of it, grow it under glass, in rich soil and a warm 

 moist atmosphere, and train up a single stem, which keep denuded of side-branches. 



Crotons. — Sibson. — You will do no good with them in a cool greenhouse. They 

 must have a moist stove and generous treatment, or they will become a nuisance. 



Umbilicus pendulinus. — W. B. — It is scarcely worth growing, though it 

 occasions no trouble. We have flowered specimens in a cool fern-house, and found 

 them easy enough to do, provided they never wanted water. 



Woodlice, Rose Stocks. — R. B. Johnson.— The, woodlice that are destroying 

 your rose cuttings under handlights must be trapped and killed. Scoop out a few 

 halves of potatoes or apples and lay them hollow side downwards amongst the cut- 

 tings. Every morning take them up, and you will find numbers of the vermin 

 inside them. Or take a number of thumb-pots and fill them lightly with moss and 

 place them among the cuttings without any bait at all, and the woodlice will soon 

 take to them for shelter. 



Fruit Tree Suckers. — W. R. B. — You can do nothing with the suckers of 

 apricot and pear trees that crop up two or three yards from the stems, but spud 

 them out, and cut away the crowns or clusters of underground buds from which, 

 on the upper side of the roots, they will be found to proceed. The pear tree may 

 be trained down on the other side of the wall, and will probably bear good fruit 

 there ; but you must expect a branch so trained to die occasionally. 



W. C. H. — The mushroom-bed has probably become too -wet and too cold. 

 Make up a fresh bed, using short dung only for the new material, and incorporate 

 the whole of the old bed with the new material. The spawn will probably run 

 again freely, and give you a good crop. 



Amaryllis and Liliums, etc. — Subscriber. — Every kind of bulb grown in a 

 pot should be repotted every year, and have a complete change of soil. There can 

 be no better rule generally than to repot at the time when the bulbs, whatever they 

 are, begin to grow naturally. Amaryllis may be potted at any time after they have 

 had a few week's rest, and if repotted in winter they must have bottom-heat to 

 start them into growth ; they may be easily subjected to any routine the cultivator 

 may adopt, provided they are well ripened, and have some rest, being then quite dry 

 before being started into growth again. We always repot liliums in autumn, and 

 keep them in a cool pit all winter ; they begin to grow in spring, and after the 

 middle of April are put out of doors on a bed of cocoa-nut fibre for the remainder of 

 the season. 



Hota carnosa. — Amateur, Clapton. — Hoya carnosa, a first-class climber for a 

 warm greenhouse. The plant requires a mixture of one part each of fibry peat, 

 silky loam, and pounded brick, and a half part of silver-sand and charcoal dust. 



