THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 3 



further shift will be required until after they have done flowering, 

 and much unnecessary labour is avoided. After the end of February 

 the young growth will make vigorous progress, and should be tied 

 out neatly, and their growing points nipped out. In succeeding 

 years, when the period of flowering will be more under the control 

 of the cultivator, the specimens intended for flowering in May must 

 receive their final stopping in January ; for June, in March ; and for 

 July, some time towards the end of April. Those required for May 

 must receive their final shift in October, and be placed in a tempera- 

 ture a few degrees higher than that required for the remaining por- 

 tion of the stock. After the first season's growth the plants should, 

 as soon as they are well established in the pots in which they are to 

 flower, be watered with weak liquid manure about twice, and with 

 •clear soft water at all other times. 



Large-flowered Pelargoniums winter best in a temperature rang- 

 ing between 40° and 50°, according to the weather, and with just 

 enough fire-heat to keep the frost out, and the atmosphere dry. A 

 comparatively dry atmosphere and moderate supplies of water at the 

 roots during this period, are most important, and the principal bulk 

 of the failures which occur every season may be safely attributed to 

 a reverse of these conditions. 



A compost consisting of three-parts sound turfy loam, and one 

 each of well-decayed hot-bed manure and leaf-mould, and half a 

 part of sharp silver-sand, will grow all the large-flowering varieties to 

 perfection. The soil must be used in a moderately rough condition, 

 and the loam and manure be well mixed together. The compost 

 should, if possible, be prepared four or six months beforehand, by 

 placing the manure between the layers of loam when it is stacked up 

 in a heap, as it comes from the pasture or common. 



By pursuing this plan much time and trouble will be saved, as all 

 that has to be done when the soil is required for use is to chop down 

 one side of the heap of soil, and add the sand to it. It now only 

 remains to be said in connection with this part of the subject that 

 the pots must be clean and well drained, and the soil be pressed 

 firm, without being rammed hard. 



Cuttings of well-matured wood cut up into lengths of two joints 

 each, with a young side-shoot proceeding from the top joint, strike 

 freely. Prepare by cutting them close under the bottom bud, and 

 remove the lower leaf. Insert in cutting pots, prepared in the usual 

 manner with a layer of dry sand on the top, and then place in a 

 cold frame. Keep rather elope and shade moderately during the 

 first week or ten days, and then ventilate freely, and expose to the 

 full sun. Pot off as soon as nicely rooted, and if they are stopped 

 when well established and shifted into five-inch pots about a fort- 

 night or three weeks afterwards, they will make good specimens by 

 the following season. 



There are now only three raisers of large-flowered show varieties, 

 and of these Mr. Hoyle and Mr. Poster, whose flowers are dis- 

 tributed by Mr. C. Turner, of Slough, enjoy the highest repute. The 

 new varieties that will be sent out by Mr. Turner in the ensuing 

 spring were all exhibited several times during the exhibition season 



