THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 183 



THE GARDEN GUIDE FOE JUNE. 



Elowee Garden. — If not already done, old stools of such things 

 as produce a multiplicity of flower-spikes, like the Phlox, should be 

 looked over, and the weakest of the flowering shoots thinned out. 

 Stake those left, and also flowering-spikes of Delphiniums, Lilies, 

 etc., to prevent the wind snapping them off. Pansies that have 

 done flowering should be cut back, and cuttings made of the young 

 side-shoots as they push. The superfluous shoots should be removed 

 from briers intended for budding, and the remaining ones shortened 

 back, if they are growing too vigorously. This should be done a 

 fortnight previously to the buddiug being performed, so that there 

 shall be no check to the flow of sap at that time. Seed of annuals 

 for autumn flowering should be sown soon ; this is also a good time 

 for sowing seed of herbaceous perennials for flowering next year. 

 "When left until the autumn, the plants are seldom strong enough to 

 flower well the following year. 



Kitchen Garden. — Endive and lettuce ought to be sown where 

 they are to remain at this season. There need be no waste of seed, 

 as it can be sown very thinly. Plant out cabbage, and cauliflower 

 for the autumn, and Brussels sprouts, borecole, broccoli, and savoys 

 for the winter. Choose a dull, moist day, if possible, for all planting 

 operations. The ground should be got in readiness for planting as 

 fast as it becomes vacant, so that there may be no unnecessary delay 

 when we are favoured with showery weather. Plant out the early 

 crop of celery, and shade with a few branches of evergreen until the 

 plants are established, and keep well supplied with water. Sow at 

 the end of the month a few rows of any good second early marrow 

 peas for late autumn supply. 



Ertjit Garden. — Let the work of thinning the young shoots pro- 

 gress steadily, and leave no more wood than is really wanted for 

 bearing next year, and filling up vacancies that are likely to occur. 

 Pinch cherries, plums and pears back to the third or fourth leaf, to 

 encourage the production of spurs. Pyramids, espaliers, and cor- 

 dons should have just as much attention as wall-trees; thin out the 

 shoots where the trees are likely to be crowded with too much wood, 

 and stop the other shoots back to the same distance as recommended 

 above, llemove all runners from the strawberry-beds, unless they 

 are required for layering. 



Conservatory. — The whole of the hard-wooded plants ought to 

 be removed into the open air some time this month, according to 

 the state of the young growth. The utmost caution is necessary, 

 just now, to see that the plants have sufficient water at the roots, 

 but without having too much. The specimens must be looked over 

 regularly, rain or no rain. It is a mistake to suppose that a shower 

 of rain is sufficient for plants in pots. Pelargoniums are now fast 

 going out of flower ; they should be removed to the open air to 

 mature the young wood, and then be cut back to two or three eyes 

 each. Euehsias may have liberal supplies of manure-water to help 



