212 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



ported until it reaches the roof. Vines which are strong, and 

 planted behind pipes, should be cut back to one bud above the level 

 of pipes, and all the growth which starts from all the lower buds 

 must be rubbed of before it exceeds two inches in length, otherwise 

 it will rob the leading shoot of its proper share of nourishment. 

 The following winter season, shorten the canes to about one-half, 

 and at the third winter prune them to about three-fourths of their 

 length. Those trained to roofs not exceeding twelve feet will only 

 require shortening about half way the second winter. If they do 

 well, the canes will be strong enough to admit of their being left 

 their full length the winter following. 



The extension system consists in having a sufficient number of 

 rods from one vine to entirely fill the house ; or two vines, if a span 

 roof. The centre rod should be taken up the first season ; those on 

 eacb side, the second season, and so on, until the house is filled ; 

 if, however, the vine is not so vigorous as it should be, one rod only 

 must be taken up each season. They must be shortened back in the 

 same manner as those trained on the single-rod system, and, of 

 course, trained perfectly straight. 



Some growers prefer the long-rod system, which consists in 

 keeping up a constant succession of young canes, and have a double 

 set — the second set being represented by the dotted lines in Fig. 3. 

 After a sufficient number of rods, as described above, are obtained, 

 a young shoot is trained up between each, and in the winter follow- 

 ing, the old rods, or those upon which the fruit was borne, are taken 

 off first above the bottom spur, and the following season a young 

 one is trained up to take its place. The rods, represented by the 

 dotted lines, ai'e left their full length and allowed to carry a crop of 

 grapes the following summer ; and in the winter following are 

 in their turn removed, and the young shoots which spring from 

 the base of those headed down, are dealt with in the same way the 

 following season. 



The management of the side branches, or fruiting spurs as 

 they are usually called, must now engage our attention ; and it is to 

 be hoped the directions here given will be clearly understood. As 

 a rule, the spurs should be from twelve to fifteen inches apart on 

 each side of the cane ; it will therefore be necessary to rub off in 

 the spring every other. shoot on each side. To prevent the possi- 

 bility of a misunderstanding upon this point, let us for a moment 

 suppose the base of the vine represented in Fig. 1 to be that part of 

 the cane at the bottom of the rafter. On the left hand are six buds, 

 and on the right, five ; therefore, the second, fourth, aud sixth buds 

 should be removed from the former, and the second and fourth from 

 the latter ; stop the side branches at two joints above the bunch, 

 and the laterals which push from the terminal buds of the latter at 

 the first joint. At the winter pruning, cut the side branches back 

 to within two buds of the base ; and when the young growth is 

 sufficiently advanced to enable the cultivator to determine which 

 of the two shoots is the strongest, the weakest must be rubbed off". 

 "When the difference in the strength is trifling, the shoot nearest the 

 main-rod must be left, for it is desirable to keep the spurs as short 



