THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 61 



moment they are required for other crops, apart from the injury 

 arising to succeeding crops through the non-pulverization of the 

 soil. Plant chives, garlic, horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, 

 rhubarb, and shallots, and also propagate perennial herbs by division 

 and offsets. Towards the end of the month, sow in sheltered posi- 

 tions Walcheren broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Early York and Red 

 cabbage, Early Horn carrots, chervil, leeks, lettuce, parsley, long 

 and turnip radishes, Early TJlm savoys, spinach, turnips, and Windsor 

 beans. Plant out autumn-sown cabbage and lettuce, if the soil is 

 in a nice friable condition. Spread seed potatoes out to enable them 

 to form hard purple sprouts by planting time. 



Ebuit Garden. — The planting and pruning of all kinds of fruit- 

 trees must be finished at once. In nailing wall-trees, use new 

 shreds, and have them long enough to allow plenty of room for the 

 shoots to swell when growing. 



Greenhouse. — In frosty weather use just sufficient fire to keep 

 the frost out, as the employment of a largo amount of fire-heat at 

 that time is injurious to nearly all the greenhouse plants. After 

 two or three damp days, light a fire to warm the pipes, to allow 

 the ventilators to be open, without the temperature being materially 

 lowered, and at the same time set the air in motion, and drive out 

 the stagnant atmosphere, which soon accumulates, without ventila- 

 tion. A few fuchsias should be started in a genial warmth, to fur- 

 nish cuttings for growing on for midsummer and autumn flowering. 

 Autumn-struck plants of show and fancy pelargoniums should be 

 potted in five or six-inch pots, without further delay, and they will 

 then make fine plants for conservatory decoration. Camellias should 

 be carefully watered, for, if allowed to get too wet or too dry, they 

 will soon shed their buds. Eerns must be kept rather dry, as they 

 are now at rest, and unable to absorb a large amount of moisture. 

 Tie and train all plants intended for exhibition, whether hard or 

 soft-wooded, if they require it, for there will be little time for this 

 kind of work next month. Look after green-fly, thrip, and mildew. 

 Eumigate with tobacco or tobacco-paper for the two former, and dust 

 with sulphur for the latter. All hard-wooded plants require free 

 ventilation, and soft-wooded kinds to be near the glass, with suffi- 

 cient air, to prevent their drawing up weakly. 



Stove. — Ixoras, Eondeletias, Ailamandas, and Francisceas in- 

 tended to be cut back should have attention at once. They will 

 break stronger, and the young growth will be more thoroughly 

 matured than would be possible were the pruning left until they 

 get into full growth. Plants of this class must not have more water 

 than is sufficient to keep them in good health. Start Achimenes, 

 Caladiums, and Gloxinias. Good fibry loam, peat, and leaf-mould, 

 in equal quantities, with a sixth part of sharp silver-sand, will grow 

 all these plants to perfection, if they receive good management in 

 other respects. The Caladium pots should be covered with a layer 

 of cocoa-nut refuse, to keep the soil moist without its requiring to 

 be watered. Shake out ornamental-leaved Begonias, and repot in 

 the same compost as above. Do all the watering in the morning. 



Eoectng. — Vines started last month should have a rise of about 



