THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 103 



require no more air than is really necessary to insure a firm growth 

 and maintain a pure atmosphere. With respect to shading, it may 

 be stated that they must have full exposure to the light at all times, 

 excepting when the sun is shining brightly, and then the foliage 

 must he screened from its influence by means of tiffany or canvas 

 blinds. It is impossible to lay down any precise rule with respect 

 to watering, as each plant will differ more or less in its require- 

 ments. They must be supplied with sufficient water, and no more ; 

 that is, the soil must not be allowed to become dry, or be kept 

 in a state of saturation. Healthy specimens, however, will, if the 

 drainage is perfect and the pots full of roots, require very liberal 

 supplies. After they are shifted into the pots in which they are to 

 flower, and are well established, water alternately with weak liquid 

 manure. Those who have not the conveniences for making liquid 

 manure from horse or sheep's droppings, may make a stimulating 

 liquid by mixing one ounce of guano and a five-inch pot full of soot, 

 with three gallons of soft water a sufficient time before it is wanted, 

 to allow of its becoming clear before used. A thorough wash over- 

 head occasionally will be highly beneficial, but the best means of 

 providing them with a proper share of atmospheric humidity is to 

 sprinkle the stages and walls, and pour a few cans of water upon the 

 floor two or three times a day. 



Sound turfy loam should form the staple part of the compost, and 

 to every three parts of loam should be added one part of peat, one 

 part of thoroughly decaved hotbed manure, dried and run through a 

 coarse sieve, and a third part of silver-sand. The loam and peat 

 must be broken up moderately, the manure and sand then added, 

 and the whole mass well incorporated together. The soil used when 

 the old plants are shaken out should be made rather finer, and have 

 a larger proportion of sand than advised above ; which is quite 

 sufficient, by the way, for all subsequent shifts. The only matter 

 remaining to be mentioned here is that the plants must be shifted on 

 until they reach the size in which they are to flower as soon as the 

 pots are nicely filled with root?, before they become pot-bound, 

 because every check they receive tends to throw them prematurely 

 into flower. 



The best style of training is that shown in an illustration of a 

 specimen fuchsia in the catalogue of florists' flowers, published 

 by Mr. Cannell, of the Fuchsia Nursery, Station Eoad, Woolwich.* 

 The specimen there figured is one of a fine collection exhibited by 

 Mr. Cannell at one of the great summer shows of the Royal Botanic 

 Society, Regent's Park, last year. He is undoubtedly one of the 

 most successful trade cultivators and exhibitors of the fuchsia in the 

 country, and is, so far as I am aware, the only trade grower who 

 makes a specialty of this most beautiful and useful plant, and has 

 for several years past distributed the beautiful varieties raised by 

 that veteran raiser, Mr. Banks. The plants exhibited by Mr. Cannell 

 upon the occasion referred to were from cuttings struck in the spring 



* Through the kindness of Mr. Cannell, we are enabled to present our readers 

 wiih an illustration of the line specimen to which Mr. James alludes. 



