THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 101 



I shall not say much about striking the cuttings, because those 

 who have not the command of a hotbed will save themselves much 

 trouble and anxiety by expending a few shillings in the purchase of 

 a stock of young plants or rooted cuttings from those who grow 

 fuchsias extensively, and sell them at a cheap rate. Where the 

 conveniences exist for striking the cuttings, of course the work of 

 propagating the stock is very simple. Select short, stubby, and firm 

 shoots, and take them off with four or five joints, then trim oif the 

 two lower pair of leaves, and insert the cuttings deep enough to 

 admit of the base of the leaves at the third joint to rest upon the 

 sand, to avoid the check experienced by cuttings where several are 

 put in one pot and divided. When rooted put them singly in small 

 pots, as they can then be shifted into larger pots without iujury to 

 the roots. To assist the quick development of the roots, partly 

 plunge the pots in the hotbed, and if placed in a large house cover 

 them with a hand-glass to maintain a close damp atmosphere about 

 them, but when in a frame no hand-glass will be required. Shade 

 from the sun and sprinkle overhead when necessary, but they must 

 not be kept too moist, or a large proportion will damp off. When 

 rooted expose them more freely to the light and air, and shift into 

 pots two sizes larger, as soon as the cutting pots are nicely filled with 

 roots. It will be necessary to keep the house or pit rather close for 

 a few days after they are repotted, to assist them in becoming esta- 

 blished quickly. Afterwards more air and light will be required to 

 insure a short-jointed and firm growth. 



In dealing with old plants that were pruned in the winter, and 

 are now starting into growth, it will be necessary to first turn them 

 out of the pots, and then to remove the greater part, if not all, the 

 old soil from the roots, and repot them in a fresh compost and 

 in clean pots not larger than those from which they were taken. 

 They may still be pruned, but there is a danger of the strong-growing 

 sorts suffering from a loss of sap when pruned hard thus late in the 

 season. The roots of specimens two or three years old may be 

 shortened if required, but with few exceptions the plants from cut- 

 tings struck last year should be potted with their roots intact. 

 Prepare the pots by putting a rather large piece of crock over the 

 hole, then a layer of smaller pieces ; and to keep the soil in its place, 

 put a layer of rough turf or flaky leaf-mould over them. Upon this 

 put a handful or two of the compost, then spread out the roots 

 regularly over it, and put a few handfuls of the finest part of the 

 compost immediately over them, and strike the bottom of the pot on 

 the bench to shake it down amongst them. Then fill in with the 

 soil, and press it moderately firm. After they are potted, remove 

 them to a structure where they can be kept close and shaded. 

 Syringing them lightly twice a day is the best means of checking 

 undue evaporation until the roots are established in the new soil, 

 and able to take up sufficient moisture for the support of the plant. 

 Afterwards it will not be desirable to syringe them so frequently, as 

 one good washing will be decidedly preferable to half-a-dozen light 

 sprinkles. Air-giving, shading, and watering must be regulated by 

 the weather, but it may be stated that fuchsias, when growing freely 



