306 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



others ; the young canes should be stopped once during the summer, 

 when they have attained about half tbeir length, to strengthen the 

 lower buds, and also they should be stopped when they have attained 

 their full length. 



If the canes are short-jointed, it will be necessary to remove a 

 portion of the lateral growth, when the vines start into growth in 

 the spring. As a rule, the laterals should be about nine inches 

 apart on each side of the rod, and a- bunch of fruit left to every 

 alternate lateral. After the bunches are formed, and the grapes 

 gone out of flower, the laterals should be shortened back, and all 

 sub-laterals removed as fast as they make their appearance, to afford 

 the fruit the fullest exposure to the beneficial influence of the sun ; 

 the bunches will require thinning lightly when the berries are of the 

 size of very small peas, to enable the latter to attain their full size, 

 which of course it is impossible for them to do when they are left 

 unthinned, as is usually done in the case of vines- in the open. 



Vines raised from eyes are the best for outdoor, as they are for 

 indoor planting, but as many readers of this do not possess the 

 necessary conveniences or skill for that mode of propagation, a few 

 hints on one or two ways in which a stock can be more readily raised 

 will, in all probability, be useful. 



Cuttings afford the readiest means of raising a stock when there 

 is no vine already in the garden, and, with ordinary care, strike very 

 freely. Some time in November select moderately short-jointed and 

 medium-sized shoots, that are well matured; fasten them together, 

 in a bundle, and insert them temporarily in the border, and protect 

 from very severe frost. Early in March cut them into lengths of 

 three or four joints- each; remove the two lowest buds,, and 

 plant them firmly in well-prepared soil in the open border, deep 

 enough for the bud nearest the top to be just above the surfaces. 

 "With a little attention in watering, and keeping clear of weeds, the 

 larger portion will be nicely rooted by the autumn, and be in good 

 condition for planting, or they may be transplanted and planted out 

 in their permanent quarters the following autumn. In propagating 

 vines by layers, it is simply necessary to select a well-ripened shoot, 

 and after cutting it half way through, in a slanting direction, on the 

 side, that it will be lowest when it is pegged down in the soil, and 

 then fastening them just below the surface, as pourtrayed in Figs. 

 3 and 4. This should be done some time during October or 

 March, and a small piece of potsherd placed in the wound, to pre- 

 vent its closing. One bud only should be allowed above the sur- 

 face, and the others rubbed off. The layers, under ordinary cir- 

 cumstances, will be well rooted by the end of the summer, but it 

 is generally preferable to defer taking them off uutil early in the 

 autumn. 



Fig. 3 shows the mode of layering in pots, and Fig. 4 that of 

 laying in the open border. If strong shoots are selected, and 

 the layers watered when required, vigorous canes, several feet in 

 length, may be secured the first season. A number of vines may 

 be raised very quickly, by pegging a strong cane down in a shallow 

 trench, and then just covering it with sandy soil. Provided the 



