310 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



HYACINTHS FOE EXHIBITION. 



BY ROBERT OTJBRIBGE, 



Church "Walk Nursery, Stoke Newington. 



[N the cultivation of the Hyacinth, whether for exhibition 

 or conservatory decoration, the bulbs should be managed 

 in exactly the same manner, to develope the flower 

 spikes to the fullest extent possible, and ensure a full 

 return for the outlay incurred in the purchase of the 

 bulbs. It should always be remembered that the Dutch put the 

 flower spikes into the bulbs, and all that the cultivator has to 

 do is to bring them out, and therefore the necessary attention 

 should be paid to ensure their being brought out in the best possible 

 manner. 



The cultivation of the Hyacinth is a very simple matter, as will 

 be seen by the directions here given, which, it is hardly neces- 

 sary to say, should be strictly followed. One of the most important 

 points is to select hard, sound, well-ripened bulbs, for the fine spikes 

 of bloom cannot be had from those soft and spongy, even if they are 

 large in size. 



The growth must be prolonged over as long a season as possible, 

 and consequently early potting must be practised. Pot the bulbs 

 as early after the appearance of this as possible, especially if they 

 are wanted for very early flowering, and have to be forced. This 

 will give them plenty of time to form roots and get well established. 

 When this is accomplished before they are placed in the warmth, 

 there will be little danger of any of them refusing to push up the 

 spikes at the proper time. Dumpiness can be safely attributed to 

 the bulbs not being properly furnished with roots, and it is a waste 

 of time to put paper caps over them with the idea of drawing the 

 spikes up. The fault lies with the roots, and if they are all right 

 there will be little or no fear of a failure. Good turfy-loam and 

 well-decayed cow-dung, at the rate of three parts loam to two of 

 manure, chopped up roughly and mixed with a sixth-part of silver- 

 sand, forms a capital compost for hyacinths as well as other bulbs. 



Use six-inch pots, and let them be well drained, by placing a 

 layer of crocks in the bottom. Put one bulb in each pot ; press the 

 soil rather firm in the pots, and when they are filled to within an 

 inch of the rim, insert the bulbs and fill the soil firmly about them. 

 The neck of the bulb should show just above the soil. When they 

 are simply placed on the surface with a little loose soil about them, 

 the weight of the spike will probably topple them over. The sod 

 should be used in a moderately moist condition, and then no water- 

 ing will be necessary until they come from the plunge beds. When 

 all are potted, make up a good bed of coal-ashes through which the 

 worms cannot penetrate, and stand the pots upon it. This done, turn 

 a small sixty-pot over each bulb, and cover with coal-ashes, spent 

 hops, or cocoa-nut-fibre refuse, to the depth of six or eight iuches. 

 Here they should remain for five or six weeks, and then be brought into 



