THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 269 



assist in swelling up the buds. Trees growing in houses with fixed 

 roofs should, to compensate for the benefits they are deprived of, be 

 syringed at least three times a week, from this time until the end 

 of September ; and if at all infested with black or green fly, or with 

 thrips, they should be fumigated three or four times, with two days 

 between each operation. Trees that are uncovered should be 

 smoked two or three times, or more if necessary, before the lights 

 are taken off, provided there is the least vestige of either of the 

 above-mentioned pests upon them. Clear water is valuable as a 

 preventive, but when either the green-fly or thrips have become 

 firmly established, something stronger is necessary to dislodge them, 

 and nothing can possibly surpass tobacco smoke, when used in a 

 judicious manner. All fruit trees in pots should be removed to 

 the open, where they will have full exposure to the sun and to 

 the air throughout the day. The pots should be stood upon a 

 bed of coal-ashes to prevent the worms passing through the holes 

 in the bottom ; and to keep the roots cool, and ,to prevent the soil 

 drying up too quickly, pack some loose material, such as parti v 

 decayed leaves, or tan, or cocoauut-fibre refuse, between and about 

 the pots. With reference to winter management, it must be said 

 that trees do not of course require so much moisture about the 

 roots after they have completed their growth, as they do when 

 growing freely and have also a crop of fruit to support ; but at no 

 stage must the soil be allowed to become dust dry. Speaking in a 

 general way, sufficient moisture should be administered to keep the 

 leaves from flagging, and no more ; and in winter the soil should be 

 kept moderately moist only. One of the chief causes of the flower- 

 buds of fruit trees grown under glass dropping off prematurely, is 

 due to the soil being kept too dry during the winter. An excessively 

 high temperature in starting the trees and exposing them to sudden 

 changes will also cause the buds to fall off, but the most general 

 cause is undoubtedly dryness at the roots. A moderately thorough 

 soaking of water about once a month during the winter season will 

 suffice ; and to prevent the borders being kept in a constant state of 

 saturation wheu the trees are at rest, the lights should be put on 

 early in November. It is also worthy of remark, in connection with 

 this branch of the subject, that all outside borders of early bouses 

 should be covered early in the last-mentioned month to retain the 

 warmth of the soil as far as it is possible to do so. A layer of newly 

 gathered leaves, about fifteen or eighteen inches in thickness, and 

 thatched with long litter or straw, forms the most effectual covering, 

 as it throws off' the wet and also assists in keeping the soil warm. 

 It is not my intention to say anything about pruning and training, 

 but it will perhaps be useful to many to know, that weakly shoots 

 which will not be required, may be removed, if the trees are over- 

 crowded, and the wood that will be required for laying in, for bearing 

 next year's crop, will be properly matured through receiving a fair 

 share of light. 



