MAY. 153 



ground or quarter in the garden, if ever so small, and well trench and 

 manure the soil before planting the young trees, for all Currants 

 delight in a deep soil, well enriched with strong manure ; and except 

 the trees are always in a vigorous and healthy condition, fine fruit in 

 quantity cannot be expected. 



Currants strike freely from cuttings, for which, see directions in 

 previous chapters, under the head of propagation ; and in planting this 

 fruit, if intended for bush culture in the open quarter, choose healthy 

 young trees, with stems about a foot high. Plant in rows five feet 

 apart, and the same distance in the rows ; and, while the trees are 

 small, any light crops, such as Lettuce, Onions, &c, or Strawberries, 

 between the rows for the first two or three years, may be grown. The 

 trees should be planted in October, but not pruned till the following 

 March, when the young shoots must be shortened to form the future 

 head ; this is managed by selecting five or six well placed shoots, to 

 furnish the main branches, keeping the centre open in the form of a 

 goblet. The short-spur system is the best mode of pruning the red 

 and white Currants, therefore, after the trees are formed, all the side 

 shoots are annually cut back, leaving a bud or two at the base of 

 each shoot ; the leading branches of course are to be left longer till the 

 trees fill their allotted space. Currant trees usually last and produce 

 good fruit from ten to twelve years, after which time it is better to 

 make a new plantation in a different part of the garden, and destroy 

 the old trees as soon as the young plantation comes into bearing. 



The summer treatment consists in removing all superfluous shoots 

 and suckers ; stop or pinch out the ends of the remaining shoots ; 

 by so doing, it will tend to check the ravages of the green-fly ; and, by 

 removing all useless shoots and suckers, sun and air are admitted through 

 the trees ; this operation should be done towards the end of June, or 

 before the fruit begins to colour, the object being to force the strength 

 of the tree to the enlargement of the fruit, instead of wasting its energy 

 in useless growth. Keep the soil about the plants well stirred, by 

 frequent hoeings during summer, which will maintain moisture, and 

 free the ground from weeds ; and, if any of the trees show signs of 

 weakness, it is a good plan to cover the ground about the roots with 

 rotten manure, or a soaking of manure water will answer the same 

 end. Currants may be had for use from July to November with little 

 trouble. To prolong their season in the open quarter, some of the 

 trees should be covered with mats or canvas. After the fruit is 

 perfectly ripe, and when shaded from the sun, it will keep fresh for use 

 for a long time, and will be succeeded by that from a north wall, which 

 will keep fit for use till the end of November, and, at that late 

 period, it is a novelty at table. The trees for training should be planted 

 from three to six feet apart, according to the height of the wall, and 

 the shoots trained vertically, about nine inches apart ; the leadinw 

 shoots should not be shortened till they reach the top of the wall, and, 

 during the summer, pinch out the points of all side shoots ; and, at the 

 winter pruning, cut them into one or two buds ; give a liberal supply 

 of liquid manure during their growth, and do not disturb the roots by 

 deep digging. 



