JUNE. 173 



as to be least injurious to the old stools, is October, which is likewise 

 the best time for making the plantation. Although this may be done 

 any time when the weather is favourable during winter, or early in 

 spring, yet it is not well to disturb the roots by taking off suckers late 

 in spring, or after vegetation has commenced. Root-suckers are often 

 thrown up at a considerable distance from the plant, and can be 

 removed without materially affecting it ; but frequently the suckers 

 come out like offsets. When this is the case, they ought to be 

 detached with a sharp sucker ing iron, and, at the same time, care should 

 be taken not to injure the bud or buds which will be found on the part 

 of the root just below the ground, at the base of the shoots made in the 

 course of the current season ; for these buds give rise to the shoots 

 which become the canes for bearing in the following year. Propagation 

 by cuttings is not a sure method, and is seldom resorted to, as the 

 preceding mode affords so much facility ; but any particular sort may 

 be more rapidly increased by both cuttings and suckers than by suckers 

 alone. The cuttings should be inserted in light, rich, rather moist soil, 

 and in a somewhat shaded situation, at least one not exposed to the 

 direct rays of the sun in the hottest parts of the day. 



" Soil and Situation. — The Raspberry succeeds in any rich garden 

 soil that is not too stiff, but prefers one that is rich and rather moist. 

 It grows exceedingly well in sandy alluvial ground, also in peat and 

 soils that are mixed with peat ; but those which are heavy and compact, 

 becoming hard in dry weather, do not suit it. In all cases, abundance 

 of decomposed manure should be supplied when the ground is trenched 

 before planting, and afterwards every autumn, as a top-dressing. The 

 ground should be trenched at least two feet deep, and if to the depth of 

 three feet, so much the better. Plenty of manure must be introduced, 

 especially about one foot below the surface, for the roots near the latter 

 can be fed by the annual manuring. 



" Planting. — Raspberries are usually planted in rows, and their 

 bearing shoots tied to stakes. In this way, the distance allowed 

 between the rows may be five feet, and that between the plants in the 

 row three feet. In very rich soil, six feet between the rows, and three 

 or four feet between the plants in the row, would be preferable distances ; 

 or the rows may be eight feet apart, in which case, certain kitchen 

 garden crops may be grown between ; but, if so, care should be taken 

 that the soil be kept well manured and always sufficiently moist. 

 Raspberries are sometimes planted, for arched training, in rows four feet 

 asunder, and the same distance between the plants in the row. When 

 planted to be trained against an espalier, the plants may be two feet 

 apart. Mr. Whiting states (Gardeners' Chronicle, 1849, p. 149) that, 

 in poor soil, he finds planting one foot apart, in five feet rows, and 

 leaving one, or occasionally two canes to each root, is preferable to 

 planting at greater distances, and allowing three or four canes to each root. 



" Mode of Bearing. — The Raspberry sends up shoots from which the 

 leaves drop in autumn, and, from the buds on these shoots, or canes 

 as they are are called by some, branchlets push in spring, on which 

 fruit is produced in the course of the summer, and sometimes till 

 autumn. The branchlets diverge in all directions from the shoots from 



