174 THE FLORIST. 



which they "spring, so that in the natural state they cannot be over- 

 crowded. Whilst these are bearing the fruit, young shoots arise from 

 the main stock or base of the stem, and suckers frequently spring from 

 the roots, at a distance from the plant. These bear in the following 

 season, forming a succession to those which are bearing, and which die 

 back to the ground before winter. 



" Pruning and Training. — When the plants are intended to be 

 trained to stakes in the usual way, the pruning and training are very 

 simple. We shall commence with a new plantation. One, two, or 

 three canes may be planted for the purpose of being tied to a single 

 stake. If two are planted, they may be six inches apart, and in the 

 direction of the row ; if three, they may be at the same distance from 

 each other, and placed so as to form an equilateral angle, in the centre 

 of which the stake may be inserted. Stakes, however, will not be 

 necessary in the first season ; for the canes, when planted, should be 

 cut down to within six inches or one foot from the ground, especially if 

 they are weak ; or, if strong, and fruit be desired the first season, they 

 should be shortened more than the bearing shoots of an established 

 plantation, so that, in either case, staking will not be necessary. The 

 object of cutting back the year-old canes is to invigorate the young 

 shoots. When these push, three, four, or five of the strongest of them 

 should be encouraged ; the others ought to be rubbed off, or destroyed 

 by means of the suckering iron. Towards autumn, stakes must be 

 prepared. Their lower end should be tapered to a sharp point, but 

 without leaving angles on the taper, for when smooth, they can be 

 introduced between the roots without breaking them. In October or 

 November the plantation should be pruned, in order that the ground 

 may be manured and forked over. Some think that the canes are 

 injured by frost and rain when pruned before winter. Having much 

 pith, injury from such causes may take place for some distance below 

 the cut, or as far as the first joint. The plant is not susceptible of 

 injury from frost, except so far as the pith may get too much 

 soaked with wet, which will be only a little way, especially if the canes 

 are cut slanting. In proceeding to prune, the two-year old canes, now 

 dead, should, in the first place, be cleared away, and three or four of 

 the strongest young canes ought to be selected for bearing in the 

 following season. They should be shortened where they exhibit signs 

 of weakness and begin to twist or bend. If there are more canes than 

 the number considered proper for being tied up for bearing, they should 

 also be cut away. After hoeing away the surface soil, and clearing all 

 weeds from the base of the stem, the stakes should be driven in cor- 

 rectly in line, and their tops cut to a regular height. The canes should 

 then be tied to the stakes with osier twigs, or with the golden Willow, 

 than which nothing is better for the purpose, if it can be had, and if not, 

 tar-twine may be substituted. This operation completes the first year's 

 pruning and training. Objections have been made to the above mode 

 of training to stakes, on account of the canes being brought too closely 

 together, but it must be recollected that the canes do not require light ; 

 the buds of course do, but when pushing, they are not shaded, and the 

 shoots from them extend outwards, so that the longer they grow the 



