134 THE FLORIST. 



Begin potting the first week in March, using from two to three inches 

 of broken crocks and chnkers as drainage. Chop the soil well, sifting 

 only a portion for about three inches of soil at the top, using the coarse 

 portion of the siftings as a thin layer over the crocks to assist drainage. 

 Pot very firm indeed. 



After potting expose them fully to the weather, placing the pots on 

 two parallel slips of wood, so as to ensure good drainage and prevent 

 the ingress of worms. Water moderately after potting. 



We have been induced to offer these remarks on the culture of 

 Picotees and Carnations, in consequence of having received so many 

 communications lately on the subject, and believing also that our plan of 

 culture would be as acceptable to our readers as any. We are anxious 

 to impress on the minds of readers that Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks 

 are thoroughly hardy plants, and vnll bear any amount of frost under 

 proper treatment, by which we mean being kept dry in a dry frame, 

 well aired, and moderately watered in sunny open weather. In short, 

 as a general rule, keep dry and air well. We wintered several thousand 

 pairs in dry frames without any covering whatever, with the soil frozen 

 hard for weeks, and were rewarded by luxuriant health and vigour, as 

 can be seen by any person visiting this estabhshment at the present 

 time. With many, the Carnation is treated too tenderly, by keeping 

 them in close frames, watering too freely, and covering too much. It 

 is also a great fault to pot off in large pots for wintering. We use none 

 larger than large 60-sized pots for a pair of strong layers. 



PANSIES. 



These have wintered well. The plants in pots wintered in cold dry 

 frames with little or no covering are in luxuriant health. Those planted 

 out have done equally well, and, as with Pinks, raised beds are used. 

 We are now blooming upwards of 1 4,000 seedhng Pansies, all of which 

 have been wintered on raised beds, without any covering, and with the 

 loss of less than 200 plants. The seed is so\vn broadcast in a bed towards 

 the end of July, placing frame lights over it at about three inches from 

 the surface, and keeping it damp and shaded until the seed is coming 

 up. When fairly up it can be exposed to the sun, using the lights only 

 in case of heavy rains. In September prick them out in raised beds 

 for flowering in spring. 



It will, therefore, be seen that with us all florists' flowers in the open 

 ground during the winter are on well raised beds. Our northern friends 

 appear not to have paid sufficient attention to the importance of this 

 step, and we trust before another winter sets in they will be induced to 

 follow the plan practised so successfully here, by which ample drainage 

 is secured to the plants, instead of their being sodden with water after 

 a heavy rain or snow, as occurs when the beds are on a level with the 

 paths. In some soils it will be necessary to drain the beds. 



DAHLIAS. 



There has also been a great loss in Dahlia roots this season. Now 

 that we are propagating this flower, but little exertion is necessary to 

 make a few more plants than is required for planting of certain varieties 



