378 THE FLORIST. 



are often deceived with what appear to be leaf-buds, and should they 

 not break, the fruit above the next wood-bud wiU be valueless. When 

 the trees are more advanced the wood-buds can be easily seen, and the 

 shoots then cut back with safety. Before tying in the wood dress the 

 trees carefully over with sulphur mixture. Make fires very gently and 

 by day at first ; 40^ by night is ample till the buds are ready to open, 

 with a rise of 15° or 20'-' by day, with air. Protect the bjrders as 

 advised for Vines. 



Roses. — The serious losses sustained by the severity of last winter, 

 among the Tea-scented, Chinas and delicate habited Bourbons, will, we 

 conclude, put most of our readers on the qui vive, so that \nq only 

 venture to suggest what we consider the best method of averting their 

 recurrence. Ihe surest method is, taking up the plants, and laying 

 them in under a north wall, with some Fern laid over their heads. 

 Where their removal is very inconvenient, tying it into their heads is 

 generally a good security, and we have learned from a distinguished 

 amateur, that where the plants were not too large, frigi domo, cut into 

 pieces, tied over the heads, had been tried with success. Every day 

 that replanting is delayed is injurious to their blooming next season. 



Strawberries, forcing, should be, protected from further rains ; the 

 best plan is to pack them closely in cold frames, placing sawdust, dry 

 ashes, or even dry leaves between the pots, keeping the pots freely 

 exposed, and placing either glass or other protection over them in we t 

 or frosty weather. The first crop may be placed in a slight bottom 

 heat towards the middle of the month ; this will bring them on gently, 

 and if, at the same time, the top heat is kept doum, the roots will get 

 nicely in advance, and the trusses of bloom will come up strong. 

 The Black Prince and Keens' Seedling are the best for early forcing. 



Seakale, at this season, may either be forced, by taking up the roots 

 and placing them in dry sand over a slight bottom heat, covering over 

 the crowns with a foot of dry materials, to blanch the shoots. Another 

 plan, which answers very well, is to pack the roots, cut to a propor- 

 tionate length, in large pots or boxes, with dry earth, and invert a 

 similar sized pot or box over them. If these are placed in a Mush- 

 room house or dark cellar good crops may be obtained without much 

 trouble. Where, however, large quantities are wanted, and a supply of 

 fresh leaves can be had, the old plan of covering the cro^^^ls with 

 common earthenware pots made for the purpose, with a cover at the 

 top for cutting the crop, is the best. A bed of leaves, which, if fresh, 

 will give heat sufficient, should be placed over the pots ; a mild heat 

 only is necessary, as the slower Seakale is brought forward the tenderer 

 and finer will be the crop. Rhubarb may be forwarded by any of the 

 plans detailed for Seakale. 



Vinery. — As the bunches in the earliest house show themselves, 

 gradually raise the night temperature to 55°, which should be increased 

 very slowly to 60° and 65° by the time the bunches are ready to open 

 their blooms. Tie in the shoots carefully, and pinch off laterals. As 

 the Vines advance in growth, an addition of fresh materials may be 

 made to the borders, to incite the roots by a little bottom heat ; this 

 covering ^vill keep warm for a long time, if protected from rain and 

 snow. 



