JUNE. 167 



bush, exactly like a PImelea or any other hard -wooded plant, and young 

 plants should be stopped, cutting back to the last promising point above 

 the soil. There will be little gained, however, by stopping too soon, as, 

 unless the eyes are prominent and the roots in a vigorous state, but few 

 shoots will be produced ; therefore stopping should be deferred until the 

 plant is well established in a 5 -inch pot. Keep the plant growing as 

 ireely as possible during the season, repotting as may be necessary to 

 afford the roots sufficient space, stopping a second time if there is a fair 

 prospect of securing an increased number of shoots, and getting these 

 moderately ripened before winter. It should be borne in mind, 

 however, that unless the shoots are strong and well ripened they will 

 break but poorly in spring. The plants may be wintered in the cool end 

 of the stove, keeping them near the glass, and giving no more water to 

 the soil than will suffice to keep the foliage from flagging ; or they may 

 be placed in any light situation where a temperature of about 55° is 

 maintained. It ^vill doubtless be necessary to grow the plants a second 

 season before getting them sufficiently large to be worth notice as 

 flowering specimens ; for unless a plant has some 20 to 30 strong well 

 placed shoots it will hardly be possible to make anything like a first- 

 rate specimen of it the following spring. Supposing, however, that the 

 plant is in this state, which -with ordinary care will easily be the case 

 after a second season's growth, about the middle of February cut the 

 shoots back to the lowest promising eyes, and reduce the ball, shaking 

 away as much of the soil as can be done without seriously injuring the 

 stronger roots, and after slightly pruning the roots repot in the pot in 

 which the plant is to bloom. As to the size of the pot, this must be 

 regulated by the size of the specimen, &c. ; a 15-inch pot will be large 

 enough for the growth of a fine specimen, and there will be more 

 certainty of getting the plant to bloom fi-eely by keeping the roots rather 

 confined. After potting, plunge in a mild bottom heat of about 85° 

 where the night temperature of 65° or 70° is maintained, letting it rise 

 to 80° or 85° with sun heat. Keep the atmosphere moist, and 

 sprinkle the plant lightly with the syringe every fine afternoon, but 

 give water to the soil until the buds begin to push ; and if care is observed 

 to have the soil for potting in a moist healthy state, no water will be 

 necessary until the buds fairly start, and then only a moderate supply 

 should be given, for too much would probably induce a gross habit of 

 growth ; therefore, until the shoots are fairly set for bloom, give water 

 only when it is absolutely wanted, and then give a good soaking, so as 

 to moisten the whole of the soil. When the buds have fairly started, 

 and the roots appear to have got hold of the fresh soil, the plant should 

 be lifted out of bottom heat and placed in a rather airy part of the 

 house, in order to prevent over luxuriant growth. As soon as the shoots 

 are fairly set for flowering, and with proper management they will show 

 flower before making much growth, then a rather free supply of water 

 may be given, and in the case of large specimens which may be rather 

 short of pot room, give plenty of manure water. Syringing over-head 

 should, of course, be discontinued when the blossoms begin to expand, 

 but a thoroughly moist state of the atmosphere must be maintained if 

 large flowers are desired, and it is doubtless the neglect of this which is 



