280 THE FLORIST. 



a few points from south), will be wanted, for although this may be 

 done without (as I will show hereafter), yet in localities where building 

 materials are cheap it will be safest, and in the end cheapest, to have 

 the back wall of durable materials. In many places, however, the end 

 of the dwelling-house or side wall of an outhouse may be selected ; all 

 that is wanted is a wall ten to fourteen feet in height, against which to 

 place the rafters carrying the roof Now the precise length of thre 

 house is hardly a case for me to decide, — it may depend on the length 

 of your wall, or pocket, or on the partiality of yourself and friends for a 

 good dessert : no matter, when once started, the rest will only be a 

 multiple of the first pair of rafters, and accordingly may be carried out 

 to the extent of your means or inclination. 



The width of the house must bear some proportion to the height ; it 

 will not be desirable, however, to have it much wider than nine or ten 

 feet, inside measure, as the expense of construction would be increased 

 thereby. Let us say, for a guide, that it is set out for ten feet. Now as 

 we must allow for an upright front two feet in height, the plate, or 

 plugs (in the back wall) to receive the rafters, should be eleven feet 

 fi'om the floor or ground line ; then, taking the square, the angle would 

 be rather less than 45 degrees, and the length of rafter a trifle over 

 thirteen feet. This will serve to show the main proportions, for a 

 trifling deviation from these will not materially affect our plan ; but if 

 carried much beyond, the house would be inconveniently steep, or if 

 much flatter stronger rafters would be requisite, or a support, both of 

 which I want to avoid. As I entirely dispense with a brick front wall, 

 it will be necessary to lay an Oak, or a Deal, plank, six inches wide 

 by four inches deep, on the ground level ; and as the Vines are to be 

 planted inside the house, and the border made under this, it will have 

 to be supported by rough posts (Oak or other hard wood) every five 

 feet or thereabouts, and as a considerable part of the weight of the house 

 will rest on these, they will require a spur on the outside, to counteract 

 the pressure of the roof in that direction. In some locaUties cast iron 

 or stone posts may be procured cheaper. The sill will have to be firmly 

 secured on these, and furnished with uprights under each rafter 20 inches 

 high, to support the front plate ; this must be six inches wide by five 

 inches deep, worked off on the upper side to the angle of the roof, and 

 in which the rafters will be morticed, and secured in the plate in the 

 back wall at their upper end. The space between the sill and front 

 plate will be appropriated to the admission of air, for which purpose I 

 prefer wooden shutters made to slide past each other : these may be 

 connected with a small iron bar fixed to a pulley, that the whole may 

 be opened or closed at pleasure. The rafters need not be more than 

 three inches wide by five inches deep. 



The bottom set of sashes, which are to be fixtures except when 

 removed entirely for repairs, &c., should be about two-thirds the length 

 of the rafter ; this will leave the upper sashes from four to five feet long, 

 and each alternate one of these should be furnished \sdth rollers, a spring 

 and catch, or pulley and weight, so as to slide and remain at any point, for 

 ventilation. In addition, ventilating holes should be made in the back wall, 

 where practicabe, twenty-four inches long by twelve high, furnished with 



