40 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



HOW TO GROW THE FUCHSIA TOK EXHIBITIOK. 



Young plants should be procured any time from Christmas to 

 August ; if so late as August, keep them growing up to November, 

 but they must be sufficiently strong to endure going thoroughly to 

 rest for a month or so, as circumstances may require, by being placed 

 in a cool airy situation, and almost dry at the root, not powdery, bub 

 just sufficient to keep life in them. Then about January, to be 

 introduced into a little heat, about fifty-five degrees. As soon as 

 the buds begin to appear, shake all soil from the roots, and re-pot 

 them into the smaller-sized pots, always using new ones if you hav& 

 them ; if old ones, you should be particular that they are perfectly 

 clean inside. Be careful to preserve the roots on small plants ; old 

 ones can be slightly shortened. Previously prepare the soil, by 

 getting it into some warm dry place, so that the soil is the same 

 temperature as the house. 



Be particular about the drainage of the pot. Place a few small 

 pieces of potsherd at the bottom of the pots, and then a thin layer 

 of moss over them, to keep the soil separate : if this is not strictly 

 attended to, the drainage will become choked and the plants sickly ; 

 and if so, tliey very rarely recover themselves all through the season^ 



Puchsias are like radishes — the quicker they are grown the better. 

 Let the plants be potted carefully, placing the roots round the pots; 

 jar the pot on the bench, to settle the soil in between the roots; 

 press the soil down moderately firm, leaving sufficient upace for water 

 on the top. After potting is finished, plunge the pots into some 

 kind of bottom-heat — such as tan or hops — where the plant will 

 have a slight bottom-heat of about seventy-five degrees, till they get 

 thoroughly into growth, then to be gradually removed. Keep them 

 well syringed, and the top heat arrange about fifty-five degrees at 

 night, and about sixty-live in the day-time. Be careful of damp, 

 and by no means admit cold draughts nor use cold water ; if so, the 

 leaves will become brown, and the vigour of the plant will be gone. 



Now we will suppose cuttings to have struck somewhere about 

 the beginning of January, and all potted off' and doing viell ; this, 

 too, about the third week in February. Next thing to consider 

 about will be the stopping. One of the main objects in fuchsia 

 growing is to get the plants into a good shape when young; and 

 this requires some bit of consideration. There are some sorts very 

 diffictilt to get up sufficiently high for specimens, but if they are- 

 once got up, they will be sure to get bushy at the bottom afterwards, 

 because they are naturally dwarf; and others, that are strong growers, 

 require a good deal of stopping when they are young, such as 

 " Prince Alfred" or "Exhibition." They must have their tops taken 

 out when about six inches high, and tour to six side-branches tied 

 out, by placing a piece of bass round the rim of the pot, and the 

 branches fastened to it, and be allowed to grow about five inches 

 long before a centre shoot is again permitted to grow up ; and when 

 this centre shoot has grown about six to ten inches more, to be 

 stopped again, to give the side-branches strength, and to give a 

 better bottom to the plant. And this kind of stopping to be con- 

 tinued till the plant is so thick that you cannot see through it; and 



