THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 223 



the soil an inch or two deep foi- a good space around each plant, placing a spadeful 

 of manure there. Cover this over again with the soil, and water the plants twice 

 or thrice if the weather continues dry. Tliis tr. atment will induce a fresh and 

 vigorous growth, insuring as a consequence fine flowers. The secret of securing a 

 good bloom of roses in autumn exists in keeping the autumnals growing during 

 summer and autumn. Do this, and there is no fear of failure. 



" After worked roses have been planted some years — say from six to ten — the 

 health of the plants often becomes impaired ; the wood annually produced srrows 

 weaker and weaker, and does not attain that maturity and size necessary for the 

 production of fine flowers. The stems, unless washed occasionally, become covered 

 with moss and lichen^, and if the soil be at all inferior they probaoly cease to swell. 

 Too little pruning will produce this state of thini^s, but there are other causes. If 

 we carefully remove a tree in this condition, we shall find it abounds in large sucker- 

 like roots, about the thickness of one's little finger, almost destitute of fibre, and 

 which have been burying themselves deeper and deeper in the earth every succeeding 

 year. Thus they become placed farther and farther from the reach of nourishment, 

 while the tree, increasing in size, requires a greater supply. The consequence is, 

 the tree dwindles and becomes debilitated. This is especially the case where deep 

 planting has been practised. "When this state of things is visible, the plants should 

 either be root-pruned, or, which is better, taken up altogether and replanted. Let 

 this be done early in the autumn ; and when the plants are out of the ground cut 

 off all the suckers, and shorten the roots moderately close, which will induce an 

 abundant emission of fibres. Prune the heads closely in spring ; never mind sacri- 

 ficing the flowers ; the removal of trees of this age, and the shortening of the 

 roots would alone prevent a perfect flowering the first season ; look only to the 

 formation of the tree. It is, perhaps, not advisable to remove the whole at once ; 

 let a few be thus treated every year, for the second year, after replanting, having 

 regained their vigour, they may be expected to flower as beautifully as ever. Every 

 rose-tree should be named. Wooden labels answer very well. Tliey should be 

 three-quarters of an inch wide, three inches long, and about the eighth of an inch 

 in thickness. In one end of these a hole may be pierced with an awl, and copper 

 wire passed through, by which they are fastened on the branches. Wooden labels 

 ar3 preferred for naming plants in the ground. If well painted, and the names 

 written Avith a dark pencil when the paint is wet, the writing will remain plain for 

 four or five years, and often much longer. When stuck in the ground, the lower 

 end of the stick should be covered with pitch for an inch or so above the line of the 

 level of the ground." 



Cool Tkeatmext of Orchids. — Our catalogue of cool countiy plants is at 

 present very meagre, simply because we have hitherto lost them as fast as they 

 came ; but we look confidently to the enterprise of our nurserymen, such as Messrs. 

 Yeitch and Messrs. Low, to provide materials for a fresh start. Even under cool 

 treatment, orchids require air, shade, and humidity, and will not succeed unless 

 treated very differently from other greenhouse plants. A cool house ought always 

 to face the north. Ada aurantiaca, Brassi Gireoudiana, B. cinnamomea, Cypri- 

 pedium Schlimii, Epidendrum sceptrum, E. vitollinum, E. verrucosum m:ijus, Barkeria 

 spectabilis and Skinneri, Cj'cnoches barbatum (Paphinia barbata), Cattleya citriua, 

 Comparettia falcata, Cyrtochilum maculatum, Disa grandiflora, Eriopsis biloba and 

 altissima, Ccelogyne cristata, La;!ia autumnalis and anceps, Lycaste Skinneri, 

 Maxillaria venusta, Notylia bicolor, Masdevallia coccinea and tovariensis, Odonto- 

 glossum angustatum, 0. aureo purpureum, 0, bictoniense, 0. cariniferum, 0. Cer- 

 vantesii, 0. cordatum, 0. crinitum, 0. grande, 0. Ia3ve, 0. nehulosum, 0. naevium 

 majus, 0. Pescatorei, 0. Phaloenopsis, 0. pulchellum, 0. pretiosum, 0. Reichenheimii, 

 0. Uro Skinneri, 0. terrestre, 0. stellatum, Oncidium ornithorynchum, 0. leuco- 

 chilum, 0. tigrinum, 0. Skinneri, Paphinia tigrina, Pescatorea (Hiuitleya) cerina, 

 Sophronitis cernua grandiflora and pterocarpa, Uropedium Lindeni, Trichopilia picta 

 and suavis, Warrea Lindeniana. The above include nearly all the American orchids 

 with which we are acquainted, that not only delight in a cool house, but are worth 

 growing in any house at all. A few more might, however, be added, such as 

 Cypripedium insigne, Odontoglossum hastilabium, etc., to which a cool house is not 

 essential. 



