18G9.] THE CULTURE OP THE CALCEOLARIA. 229 



perfectly level surface, one-eighth of an inch below the rim, and then a little silver 

 sand scattered over the surface to fill up interstices. They are then watered 

 with a very fine rose, sufficient water being given to permeate through all the 

 soil. When it has drained off, the seeds are carefully sprinkled over the surface, 

 and a little more silver sand is spread over the seeds. The pans are then placed 

 on a level surface of coal ashes under a north border, and a hand-glass is put 

 over them. No water will probably be required for more than a week, but when 

 necessary it must be very lightly administered, to avoid swilling the seeds off. 

 Snails must be guarded against through all the early stages, but especially when 

 the plants are very small. I have known them in one night to spoil the hopes of 

 a season. The seedlings are carefully pricked into shallow pans, about an inch 

 apart, as soon as they have made four leaves. The pans are then placed in a cold 

 pit, on a cool bottom, but near the glass, kept regularly watered when necessary? 

 shaded from bright sun at first, and most important of all, thoroughly ventilated — • 

 a point which must never be neglected in any of the stages. Here they remain 

 until ready for potting-off. 



One important consideration presents itself to my mind with regard to these- 

 plants, which is, that they should never be allowed to become so much pot-bound 

 as to cause a stagnation in their growth, so as to induce in their early stages a 

 prematm-e inflorescence. If frost is kept from them, they continue growing all 

 through the winter, and may, therefore, be potted on at any time, when the roots- 

 have well developed themselves in the pots, even although it may be midwinter, 

 providing it does not freeze. In about a month from the time of pricking-out T 

 they will be ready for potting-off. I prefer putting them into small 60's, and 

 return them to a cold pit near the glass. About November they will be ready 

 for a shift into 5-in. pots, in which they may remain without injury until early 

 in February, when, if they have had a favourable winter and the weather is mild, 

 they may have another shift, the smallest into 6-in. and the largest into 8-in. 

 pots. The next shift must be into blooming pots, and the time will be when the 

 roots have well developed themselves. We find sixteens or 9-in. pots quite large 

 enough for the strongest plants, very good specimens may be grown in 8-in. pots, 

 with the assistance of a little manure-water occasionally. 



The compost we use through all the potting stages consists of a rather strong- 

 turfy loam, and leaf-mould in equal parts, and another part consisting of well 

 decayed hot-bed dung and sharp roadside sand, all well incorporated together. 



Other features of management consist in constant ventilation ; regular 

 attention to the application of water, which during December and January must 

 be applied rather sparingly, and never over the leaves ; frequent removals of 

 decayed leaves, and gentle stirring of the surface soil ; and last, but of the greatest 

 importance, frequent gentle smokings to keep down aphides — don't wait- for 

 these to come on to the plants, so that they can be seen, for when that is the case, 

 half the mischief is done. Let fumigation be considered as an integral portion 



