O THE FLORIST. 



The first requisite to success is the early and proper formation of the 

 beds. I prepare mine either in August or September, choosing fine 

 dry weather. As my stock is grown on the same beds season after 

 season, a change of soil for the surface is necessary. Each year I 

 remove a spade in depth off the top, the subsoil is then dug and 

 well broken, and carefully examined for wireworm, and all sorts of 

 vermin is hunted out ; a layer of old dung three or four inches thick 

 is then added. The manure requires to be well broken, and a suffi- 

 ciency of the powder of quick-lime mixed with it to kill all the 

 worms. After the dung is levelled, fill up with some well- sweetened 

 soil, and remember to have about three inches of light mould on the 

 surface, where the roots are to be planted ; then merely keep the beds 

 free from weeds, and stir the top occasionally until planting time. 



" The best time to plant is about the middle of February; but 

 before this can be done, the surface of the bed must be made per- 

 fectly level with the edging, the distance between the rows, either 

 five or six inches, should be marked on the edging ; the quickest and 

 easiest method to plant, is to draw drills across the bed with a 

 trowel exactly one and a half inches deep. To ascertain the proper 

 depth, I use a notched board, that rests on the wood edge. When 

 the drill is the proper depth, plant the roots firmly in the ground, 

 so that the crowns may be covered the exact one and a half inches 

 (ten large roots of strong-growing kinds are enough for a row of a 

 bed four feet wide, when the roots are small twelve to fourteen may 

 be planted) ; the roots being properly placed, return the soil to the 

 drill and level it carefully, proceeding in the same manner until the 

 bed is all planted. 



" After planting, until the young foliage begins to appear (which 

 will be about the first week in April), keep down the ravages of the 

 earth-worm, close all cracks on the surface, and in the event of 

 severe frost throw some mats over the bed during the night. As 

 the leaves break the surface, relieve them by loosening the soil and 

 closing it round the neck of the plants ; when the latter are all up, 

 then stir the soil carefully between the rows, breaking it fine (I use 

 a garden spud for this purpose), of course taking great care not to 

 cut the plants. 



"I am now of opinion, that in very dry frosty weather, such 

 as we had last spring, the frequent stirring of the surface dis- 

 penses with the necessity of watering, at least I found it so, for to 

 have watered during the continuance of blighting, frosty weather 

 Mould, 1 considered, have been almost certain destruction to the 

 tubers ; mine had no artificial waterings last spring, and moisture 

 seldom fell upon them till the copious rains of June, yet I never had 

 a finer bloom nor lifted better roots. 



" When the flower- stems are well up, the awning must be got in 

 readiness ; and during hot sunshine let down the side next the sun 

 for an hour or two, to enable the blooms to attain size. When the 

 flowers are in full blossom protect from sun and rain, giving all the 

 air possible, to prevent the stems being drawn ; if the weather is fair, 

 roll up the awning at night ; during the continuance of the bloom, 



