THli FLORIST. 



Come, brother gardeners, let me invite you to come forward 

 during the present year, and by your liberal contributions and exer- 

 tions in promoting its circulation, help to place the Florist, Fruitist, 

 and Garden Miscellany upon a still higher ground than ever. 



Ex- Superintendent. 



THE HOLLYHOCK. 



As the following observations on the management of the Holly- 

 hock are the result of several years' experience, it is hoped they may 

 be of use to such of your readers as are commencing the cultivation 

 of this beautiful flower. 



By far the best plants are to be obtained from cuttings struck in 

 the spring and early summer. In order to secure a good supply, an 

 old root of each variety should be reserved, and planted out in the 

 autumn in any part of the garden where the soil is sufficiently light 

 and the drainage good. In the spring they will throw up an abun- 

 dance of young shoots for propagation. As soon as these shoots be- 

 come from two to two and a half inches in length, they must be taken 

 off; if allowed to get too long, they will not make such good plants ; 

 they should be cut off close to the old root, and all the leaves, except 

 two or three small ones at the top, removed, care being taken, how- 

 ever, not to injure the eyes immediately below the leaves which remain. 

 Each cutting should be put singly into a small 60-sized or 3-inch 

 pot, and be planted rather deep, and the mould firmly pressed down 

 on all sides. The best soil for the purpose is a mixture of turfy loam, 

 well-decomposed leaf-mould, and coarse sand, about equal parts of 

 each. A thorough good drainage in each pot is essential ; this re- 

 mark applies not only to the cuttings, but also to the plants when 

 shifted as hereafter directed, and during the whole period they re- 

 main in pots. When planted, let the cuttings get a copious watering, 

 and remain for a short time in the shade till the leaves are dry. They 

 should then be placed in a cold frame facing the north, and be shut 

 up close for a week or ten days ; after which the lights may be taken 

 off for half an hour every morning, to dry the glass and get rid of super- 

 fluous moisture ; at the end of three weeks they may gradually get a 

 little more air morning and evening, and at the expiration of a month, 

 should the weather be calm and favourable, may be left open all night. 

 During the whole process of striking they must be carefully shaded 

 from the sun, and the frame must not be left open long in dry, windy 

 weather, as either sun or wind will soon cause the cuttings to flag. 

 Ihey require only occasional moderate watering, just sufficient to keep 

 the soil moist but not wet ; if water be given too freely, they are very 

 liable to damp- off. With judicious treatment some of the cuttings 

 will begin to strike in about six weeks ; but there is great difference in 

 this respect, some varieties not rooting so freely as others, and re- 

 quiring from eight to ten weeks, and occasionally more, before they 

 will strike. In general no heat is required, indeed it is rather pre- 



