Q THE FLORIST. 



sun and air, are best adapted for the Hollyhock. In the early part 

 of the winter the ground should be dug at least two spades deep, 

 and a heavy dressing of rich manure applied and thoroughly incor- 

 porated with the soil ; let the surface lie as rough as possible, that 

 the ground may get well mellowed with the frost. 



The proper" time for planting out in the spring must in a great 

 ire depend upon the season; but when the severity of winter 

 is over, the sooner the plants are turned out of the pots the better. As 

 before remarked, cold, if not very severe, will not injure them ; and if 

 March, as is usually the case, prove clear and dry, they may with safety 

 be planted out in the early part of that month, notwithstanding the 

 nights may be frosty and the wind in the east. The ground should 

 be lightly forked over, and the plants put out in rows four feet apart, 

 and about a yard from plant to plant. They should be plunged a 

 little deeper than they stood in the pots, and if the roots are matted 

 together, it will be advisable to loosen the outside a little, but not to 

 disturb the ball more than is necessary to free the roots. Should the 

 weather be very dry, they must have an occasional moderate water- 

 ing, which at this time of the year is best given in the morning. 

 Slugs and snails must be looked after and destroyed. No further 

 care will be necessary until the plants commence running up for 

 bloom. 



It must then be determined how many spikes each plant is to 

 produce ; as a general rule, no more than one should be allowed, 

 especially if the spikes are intended for exhibition ; but this rule is 

 not universal, as some varieties, like Comet and Commander-in-chief, 

 are liable to become coarse when grown too strong, and such should 

 be allowed two spikes to each plant. The strongest shoots should 

 be selected, and all others cut away as they appear ; the shoots re- 

 moved may be used for cuttings. 



As soon as the plants are about a foot high, a strong stake must 

 be driven down to each, and the shoots well secured with Cuba mat- 

 ting, to prevent their being injured by the wind ; from two and a 

 half to three feet out of the ground will be high enough for the 

 stakes. As the plants progress new ties must be added, and care 

 taken that the old ones do not confine or cut into the stalks. All 

 side-shoots should be removed as soon as they appear, but without 

 injuring the leaves, so as to throw the whole strength into that part 

 of the spike which will produce bloom. From the time the plants 

 commence running up, and during the whole remaining period of 

 growth, they require an abundant supply of w r ater. If the weather 

 be dry, they should be well soaked at least twice a week, and a good 

 dose of liquid manure be supplied occasionally. 



When the spikes are five or six feet high, they should be stopped 

 by cutting off a piece of the top : some little experience is requisite 

 to perform this operation judiciously ; it should be managed so as 

 to leave from three to four feet of bloom on the spike when full 

 grown, and so that, when the upper buds expand, the summit of 

 the spike may be completely closed over with bloom. Some persons 

 say, " What a pity to cut off the tops !" but if Hollyhocks are not 



