158 



THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN aUIDE. 



ifsafficientcaneswere not got in lastwinter, 

 the deficiency may now be made c;ood, and 

 a season be saved. Mulch raspberries witli 

 half-rotten dung. 



Sfrmcberries. — Runners of strawberries 

 struck in pots, may now be cut off, and the 

 plants shifted into a size larger, or turned 

 out into beds. Beds made now have the 

 best chance of becoming strong before 

 ■winter, to bear abundantly next year. 

 Strawberry-beds now want special atten- 

 tion. Strong-rooted runners should be 

 taken off to form new plantations, and be 

 pricked out into well-manured beds, pretty 

 close together, to strengthen, preparatory 

 to making new beds in September ; or they 

 may be laid in small pots, with a stone or 

 peg to fix them, and will root directly. 

 After three years strav/berry-beds cease to 

 pay, and should be broken up, and the 

 ground trenched for winter crops. 



Slone Fruits. — Tie in and train as need- 

 ful, and use the syringe to wall trees if the 

 weather should be dry, and especially with 

 east winds. Continue to bud stone fruit- 

 trees, for orchard and pot culture. Thin out 

 weak spray on all bush-fruits, and fore- 

 right shoots on wall-fruits. Maiden trees 

 intended to be trained should be stopped, 

 to make them break into side-shoots, as a 

 whole season's growth is thus saved. 



Azaleas to be prepared for ripening 

 their wood by giving more air. Put out 

 the earliest in a shady place. 



Camellias, treat the same as azaleas, 

 and shift any that require it. Tlieir roots 

 may be refreshed without giving larger 

 pots by turning out the ball, removing 

 some of the stuff from it, and making it 

 up again with fresh compost. Pot firm. 



Carnations are gross in some places, 

 through having such an excess of rain. 

 Protect the flowers from wet. get on with 

 piping and layering without loss of time. 

 Cinerarias to be propagated from 

 suckers, put in round the sides of pots in 

 very sandy compost, and keep close for a 

 week. Sow for seedling plants. 



Conservatory to have plenty of air 

 night and day, and abundance of water for 

 all growing plants, overhead as well as at 

 the roots. Neglect of watering now will 

 hereafter show sad results, especially among 

 soft-wooded and liliaceous plants. 



Citcumhers, keep liberally watered, and 

 train, and thin as necessary, to prevent 

 crowding. They will take almost any 

 quantity of liquid manure, if in a good 

 state at the roots. 



Dalilias must be humoured as to dis- 

 budding and tying, because every variety 

 has its own particular style of growth. 

 Disbud freely all soft-eyed varieties, but 



hard-eyed kinds allow to open all the 

 blooms they make, till they come good. 



'Evergreens and shrubs of the free 

 growing kinds m.ay be propagated from 

 this time to the end of August ; cuttings 

 put in in a shady place will root imme- 

 diately. Prepare now to plant evergi-eens, 

 which move well from the end of July to 

 the end of September, In new ground 

 this is the best season to plant then, but 

 in established gardens the places intended 

 for them are generally occupied with sum- 

 mer flowers. 



Pelarqninums newly cut down to be 

 kept pretty dry till they break, then to be 

 potted in small pots. Pelargoniums done 

 blooming must be turned out, but with the 

 pots plunged in tan or ashes, and the plants 

 sheltered. After a week's exposure cut 

 them in to the first or second eye at the bot- 

 tom of each slioot, and place tliem in a cold 

 pit, to make their new growth. They must 

 now, for some time, be kept from growing 

 rapidly, and have but little water. When 

 they have broken well, they must be re- 

 potted into the smallest pots their roots can 

 be got into, and all the old soil must be 

 shaken oft', and the roots moderately 

 thinned. 



Pinks to be propagated from pipings, 

 layers, or cuttings. The last is the sim- 

 plest, most certain, and therefore the best 

 method. 



Rhododendrons and other hardy Ame- 

 ricans may be layered now. Beds of Ame- 

 ricans much exposed to the sun will be 

 benefited by being mulched with moss. 



Hedges of all kinds, except holly, should 

 now be clipped in. Hedges of large- 

 leaved trees, such as laurel, Aucuba, etc., 

 ought to be cut back with the knife, as 

 the shears will spoil their appearance for 

 the whole season. 



Peas may be sown this month, for late 

 supplies, and at this season it is as well to 

 sow early as well as late sorts. Bedman's 

 Imperial and Knight's Dwarf Marrow are 

 good peas to sow the first week this month, 

 for a supply very late in the season ; but 

 Emperor, Sangster's Number One, Daniel 

 O'Rourke, and other of the earliest sorts, 

 often prove useful, and are soon cleared off 

 the ground. The best way to grow peas 

 now is in trenches. Take out the trench a 

 depth of two feet, lay at the bottom six 

 inches of rich, half-rotten dung, then fill 

 up to within nine inches of the surface, 

 and tread over. Then sow, and cover with 

 two inches of mould, and bank up the sides 

 of the trench, so that the peas will grow in 

 a sunk alley of about six or eight inches 

 depth. At each end of the alley, close it 

 in with a spadeful of earth, so as to make 



