204i 



THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



subjects may be turned to account for de- 

 coration by /i'ettinfj yoan<; plants forward, 

 and f^ivini^ them a liberal shift before tak- 

 ing them into the liouse. Amaryllises 

 should be looked over, and a fuw potted, 

 and put in a tan-bed. 



Oiicnrii) House. — Orchids that have 

 quite finished their growth for the season 

 •will require plenty of air during warm 

 weather, to assist in ripcninr; their pseudo- 

 bulbs, and at the same time less water must 

 be given. But, in such a season as this, 

 the adventurous cultivator will sometimes 

 encourage farther growth by using a high 

 temperature and plenty of moisture, rec- 

 koning upon having time yet to put the 

 plants to rest safely. Many of the Vandas, 

 Saccolabiums, and Dendrobiums will 

 submit to this sortof treatment very cheer- 

 fully, and where there are abundant evi- 

 dences of an inclination to keep growing, 

 it is not at all advisable to check it. Young 

 plants generally are reluctant to cease their 

 growing, and tiiese must Iiave plenty of 

 moisture and continued shading. But 

 tliose that are unmistakeably settling down 

 to rest should no longer be shaded, and 

 there must be a decrease of temperature 

 and of water supply. Established plants 

 of Cattleya, Lycaste, Odontoglossum, and 

 Laelia will, for the most part, require no 

 more stimulus this season, but they must, 

 nevertheless, have light but regular re- 

 freshings from the syringe. Stanhopeas 

 must be looked to, that they do not go too 

 dry, which is very likely to happen if they 

 have not been put into uew baskets this 

 season. 



Orchids that may he in Bloom in Sep- 

 tcmler. — Aerides suavissimnm ; Angrecum 

 caudatum ; Barkeria melanocaulon, Lind- 

 leyana ; Bletia campanulata ; Bolbophyl- 

 lum sanatorium ; Brassavola acaulis ; 

 Cattleya bicolor, Candida, granulosa, 

 HarrisoniaJ, Harrisonine violacea, Loddi- 

 gesi margiuata, pumila, violacea ; Cypri^ 

 pedium Farrieanum ; Dendrobium Gibsoni, 

 Heyneanum, sanguinolentum ; Dendro- 

 chilum glumaceura ; Epidendruiu phreni- 

 cium, vitellinum majus ; HuntleyaWaile- 

 sia; ; Lirlia elegans Dayii, furfuracea, Per- 

 rini ; Miltonia Candida, Clowesii major, 

 Morelli, Morelli atrorubens, Reynellii; On- 

 cidium bicolor, crispum ; I'eristeria elata, 

 guttata; Phalanopsis amabilis; Fromenjea 

 RoUisonii, stapeloides ; Stanhopea aurea, 

 iusignis, Martiana, oculata, tigrina, tigrina 

 lutescens ; Trichopilia picta ; Vanda Bate- 

 manni, Lowii. 



Pinery. — Pines growing freely must 

 have the aid of weak manure water, and a 

 moist atmosphere, but the bottom-heat 

 must be brisk if any stimulants are used. 



Shading may be removed early this month. 

 Guard against forcing small plants into 

 fruit, and to prevent it keep the plants 

 growing by frequently sprinkling the beds 

 and paths of the house. Bottom-heat for 

 pines 84', those ripening to be kept tole- 

 rably dry. Young stock to have air cau- 

 tiously, which is best done when in dung 

 beds by first applying a lining to keep up 

 the heat, which will allow of giving a little 

 air at night. 



Chrysanthemums may have liquid ma- 

 nure freely now, and plenty of rain water 

 alternately. Cuttings of pomponcs put in 

 now, and rooted quickly on a gentle dung- 

 heat, will make nice little plants to bloom 

 at Christmas in the house. They must not 

 be stopped at all, and have a rich soil to 

 grow in. Siiort cuttings should be taken, 

 so that there will be no necessity to use 

 sticks to support them. Look over all 

 large specimens whether in pots or borders, 

 and tie out securely to make them safe 

 against storms. 



Strawberries to be forced should now bo 

 strong in pots ; shift them to pots two 

 sizes larger, using a rich firm soil, well 

 rammed in, and after potting keep them 

 close in frames for a week ; then set thera 

 out on coal-ashes, and keep well watered. 



Violets may be taken up from tlie bor- 

 ders, and potted in a mixture of rotten turf, 

 rotten dung, charred rubbisli, and road sand, 

 equal parts, for early bloom. In taking 

 them up do not break the root more than 

 can be helped, and have good balls to 

 each patch. Shallow pans of seven inches 

 wide suit them better than pots. Put 

 them in a frame, sprinkle and shade, and 

 give very little air for a fortnight ; then 

 let them be exposed to all weathers till the 

 end of October 5 after which give them 

 frame culture. 



Melo)is must have aid from bottom- 

 heat, or the fruit will drop, and that now 

 ripening will have no flavour. Keep the 

 vines regular and thin, and shut up early. 

 Bulbs. — Offsets of tulips and hyacinths 

 should be planted at once in rich sandy- 

 soil on raised beds. Plant in dry weather, 

 put legible tallies to all the sorts, cover six 

 inches deep, and keep the surface clear of 

 weeds. No time should be lost in securing 

 the stock of bulbs to be purchased this sea- 

 son, as the best are usually picked out first. 

 In purchasing give the preference to hard 

 bulbs, the largest are not always the best, 

 but large bulbs are to be preferred if tho- 

 roughly ripe. 



Annuals, to bloom early next season, 

 should be sown at once on hard ground, in 

 a dry position ; if elevated above the 

 general level, all the better. The following 



