THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



Gl 



Put stakes to "rscwly-planted roses and 

 otlier trees, and mulch beds of roses to 

 protect their roots from dry bleak winds. 



Orchid-house.— Many of the subjects 

 in this house will now be coming into 

 growth, but must not for that reason be 

 stimuhited too suddenly by any undue rise 

 of temperature. There are very few that 

 will require more than a temperature of 

 65' as ,a maximum, and 55' minimum, and 

 the amateur cultivator is advised to keep 

 to this moderate range as mucli safer than 

 liigher temperature at this time of year; 

 but as the month advances the midday 

 temperature may be allowed to li-e to 70'. 

 Growing plants will want water, and this 

 will be best administered by dipping, so as 

 to thoroughly wet the roots, and without 

 suffering a drop of water to lodge among 

 the leaves or bulbs. Those that want a 

 .shift, to have it as soon as they show signs 

 of being really on the move. All that are 

 suitable to grov/- on logs or in baskets 

 should be so planted, as far preferable 

 to pots. Aerides, Vandas, Saccolabiums, 

 Phaloenopsis, and Zygopetiilums, need 

 now the warmest end of the house as they 

 are in ft-ee growth. Care must be taken 

 not to wet their young shoots. Cyrtopo- 

 diums, Barkerias, Cycnoches, Phajus 

 albus, and Wallichiana to be watered with 

 very great care, and with due regard to 

 their condition as to growth, as while they 

 are quite at rest they must be kept rather 

 dry. On bright days water the floor of the 

 liouse freely-. In neglected houses there is 

 at this time of year much injury caused by 

 rot and spot. In the case of the first, cut 

 away the part affected, and fill up the 

 wound with silver-sand or sulphur. Spot 

 is the result of a sappy condition of the 

 plants, and where there is much of it, the 

 onlj' safe course is to increase the tempera- 

 ture and encourage a vigorous growth as 

 early as possible, and the plants will out- 

 grow it. It is invariably the result of ex- 

 cessive mois'ttire in winter, or of cold 

 draughts or of steam, followed by a low 

 temperature. 



The month of March is the best 

 time for a general repotting of plants 

 that require a shift and propagating 

 by dividing the pseudo-bulbs. By a 

 decisive cut with a sharp knife between 

 the pseudo-bulbs, dendrobiums may be 

 multiplied with the greatest certainty, in 

 much the same way as taking offsets 

 from auriculas, the cuttings being prefer- 

 able if they have each a few roots attached. 

 These are to be potted and placed in a 

 uhady part of the house, and to have extra 

 warmth and very little water till they 

 begin to grow. Old flowering bulbs, of 



D. nobile, pulcbellum, etc., may be cut 

 aw.iy, even if without roots, and if laid on 

 damp moss in a close part of the house will 

 soon emit roots, and may then be potted. 

 At the beginning of the month is the best 

 time to repot anaectochilis ; and as these 

 have no fleshy bulbs, great care must be 

 taken as to watering, or they may rot 

 away at the collar. But beware of keep- 

 ing ansectochili too dry from this time to 

 the end of September. Plants in a thriv- 

 ing condition will require plenty of water 

 and always a little air as they are coming 

 into active growth for the season. The 

 soil for them should be chopped .sphagnum 

 two pai-ts, and with one part of fibrous 

 peat and silver-sand. 



Orcldds that nuiy he in bloom in February. 

 — Bnrkeria elegans, and Skinneri; Bletia 

 Shepherdii ; Brassavola Digbyana, and 

 glauca; Burlingtonia amcsna; Calanthe 

 vestita rubra oculata; Coslogyne media, 

 ci'istat.T,, and Gardneriana ; Ej)idendrum 

 vitellinum ; Grammatophyllum speciosum; 

 Lffitia Maryanii, and peduncularis ; Lep- 

 totes bicolor ; Lycaste Depoeii, Skinneri, 

 Skinneri alba, Skinneri delicatissima ; 

 Miltouia cuueatum, and Karwinskii ; Odon- 

 toglossum maculatum, membranacea, 

 pulchellum ; Eossii triumphans ; Oncidium 

 Barkerii, bicallosum, Cavendishii, incur- 

 vum, unguiculatum ; Phajus grandifolius ; 

 Schomburgkia crispa; Sophrouites cernua 

 and violacea ; Zygopelatum Mackayi ; 

 Cattleya .Walkeriana ; Cymbidium ebur- 

 neum, giganteum, and iViastersii, Cypri- 

 pedium biflora, insigne, insigne Maulei, 

 purpuratum; Dendrobium albitm, monili- 

 forme, nobile, nobile intermedium, nobile 

 pendulum, and pulchellum purpureum. 



Orchids that may be in bloom in March. 

 — Dendrobium nobile, pulchellum, macro- 

 phyllum, densiflorum, Farmeri, Pierardi 

 latifolium, aggregatura majus, anosmum, 

 Cambridgeanum, fimbriatum oculatum, lit- 

 nifiorum, nobile intermedium, nobile pen- 

 duhim; Bletia patula; Brassavola glauca; 

 Cattleya amethystoglossa, MossiiB, Skin- 

 neii ; Ccelogyne cristata ; Cymbidium 

 eburueum, cypripedium biflora, caudatum, 

 caudatum roseum, hirsutissimum ; Epiden- 

 dron aurantiacum, crassifolium, Hamburg- 

 anum; Lycaste cruenta, Deppei; Oncidium 

 sarcodes, sessile ; Phajus Wallichii, 

 Phalajuopsis amabilis, grandiflora ; Sacco- 

 labium miniatum ; Trichopilia suavis ; 

 Vanda cristata. 



Gkeenhouse. — To keep the conserva- 

 tory gay, put roses, rhododendrons, azaleas, 

 and early pelargoniums into a moderate 

 warmth, to bring them into bloom. Give 

 plenty of water and liquid manure to 

 plants coming into bloom, especially Ame- 



