206 



THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 



mould, or in clumps in rich sandy com- 

 post. When the borders are cleared they 

 can be transplanted Avithout injury to the 

 roots, and the bloom will be finer than by 

 delaying the planting till the end of Octo- 

 ber or November. Crocuses that have got 

 mixed may be treated in the same way. 

 Remove them at once to a reserve bed of 

 rich sandy soil ; there let them bloom, and 

 then separate them, and plant while in 

 flower in the places they are to occupy 

 permanently. Bulbs to be potted in suc- 

 cessional batches, so as to prolong the 

 blooming season. Pot the early blooming 

 Gladioli, Sparaxis, Ixias, Narcissus bulbo- 

 codium, Jonquils, and Tritonia aurea in a 

 mixture of peat, leaf-mould, and turfy yel- 

 low loam, equal parts. 



Tomatoes will ripen well while th h 

 weather lasts, hut in case of a change to 

 chilly weather it should be borne in mind 

 that when the fruit is fully grown it may 

 be ripened on a shelf in the greenhouse, 

 if cut with some portion of stem attached. 



Chrysanthemums require plenty of 

 water, and twice a week manure water, 

 hut not a drop of the latter to touch the 

 leaves. See to any tying that has been 

 neglected. Pot up at once those grown in 

 the open ground for the purpose, or if to 

 be raoved to make beds and ribbons, clear 

 the ground, dig it over, and plant them in 

 the places where they are to bloom at once, 

 or make all ready and move them as soon 

 as there are signs of rain. Plants potted 

 up from the open ground to be kept shaded 

 and frequently sprinkled till they recover. 

 Of course they must be lifted with good 

 balls, and be potted firm, with plenty of j 

 drainage. Thin the buds of the plants 

 grown for cut blooms. Most of the large 

 incurved varieties give the best blooms 

 from the top buds. 



Flowering Shrubs to he forced for the 

 conservatory should now be thought of, to 

 get them potted up and plunged ready to 

 he taken in to force. Plants that have 

 made good growth in the open ground are 

 best for this work, such as Lilacs, Kalmias, 

 Daphnes, Andromeda?, Polygala chamaj- 

 buxus, Ledum latifolius, Rhodora cana- 

 dense, double-flowering plums and cherries, 

 Azaleas of the nudiflora section, Weigelias, 

 etc. Get them into as small pots as pos- 

 sible without doing any serious harm to 

 their roots, and plunge in a bed of cocoa- 

 nut waste, in a sheltered position, till re- 

 quired to go to the forcing house. 



Pansies to be propagated now in quan- 

 tity for planting out in October, and to pot 

 for early blooming in pits in spring. Those 

 lately struck to be planted out in beds of 

 turfy loam, with a liberal admixture of 



sand and charred rubbish, but very little 

 animal manure. 



Planting may be proceeded with from 

 this time to the end of November, begin- 

 ning with evergreens, and getting them 

 into their places, and meanwhile preparing 

 the stations for deciduous trees, fruits, etc. 

 Whenever it is possible to prepare the 

 ground, some time before planting it, it 

 should be done ; and where orchards and 

 shrubberies are to be planted in November, 

 the soil should now be trenched up and 

 made ready, even to manuring, if required. 

 It is much against the prosperity of the 

 trees to be planted in soil only recently 

 turned over, and before there has been 

 time for the atmosphere and sunshine to 

 act upon it. 



Pevise all named plants while there are 

 blooms or fruits to determine if they are 

 tallied correctly. To keep plants correctly 

 tallied will do more to familiarize the mind 

 with their several characters and excellen- 

 cies than any amount of book study ; in 

 fact, every garden is a book where — not 

 he who runs — but he who stoops may read, 

 and everything of real interest should 

 have a tally correctly written. This is 

 especially useful in regard to rock plants, 

 coniferous trees, and roses. 



Poses budded this season require now 

 to be looked over, the wild growth cut in 

 slightly, the ties loosened, and any wild 

 buds starting below the work to be rubbed 

 off. Roses struck from cuttings to be 

 potted off as soon as rooted into 60-sized 

 pots, and be put on a gentle dung-heat, to 

 promote the filling of the pots with roots. 

 Roses layered in the open ground may be 

 removed and potted ; in fact it is better to 

 winter all roses on their own roots in pots 

 the first season after striking them, if there 

 are conveniences fordoing so. Roses lately 

 budded to have the ties loosened. Where 

 buds have failed, others may be inserted 

 either on the stems of young stocks or on 

 suitable shoots lower down than those pre- 

 viously worked. Prune pillar roses, so as 

 to remove a moderate amount of both old 

 and young wood ; that left to be its full 

 length, and at such regular distances that 

 there will be good symmetrical heads next 

 season. Short cuttings of chinas and per- 

 petuals will root now in the open ground 

 under glasses. 



Greenhouse. — If tender pot plants are 

 not at once housed, they may very soon 

 not he worth housing. There is nothing 

 more to be gained in the way of hardening ; 

 in fact, a little sun-heat under glass will 

 ripen the wood of plants that are still in a 

 sappy condition much more effectually now 

 than sunshine out of doors, besides the 



