iSSi.] WINTER SALADS. 317 



heat ill winter is the one great obstacle to their general culture at that 

 season. Unless one can find a place for them Avhere the bottom- 

 heat will never be lower than 80°, and the atmospheric temperature 

 65° or 70°, their culture need not be attempted, as an unsatisfactory- 

 crop or complete failure will be the result. With less heat than that 

 above stated we have managed to keep them on until Christmas, but 

 never for a whole winter. Where convenient means exist for their 

 growth, the present is a good time to consider the matter. Next to 

 having plenty of heat, strong plants well-established before wdnter 

 sets in is the most important. These may be raised from seed 

 sown in August, or plants may be had from cuttings. Of the two we 

 prefer the latter ; but in either case the young plants should be ready 

 for their permanent quarters early in September. In summer, Cu- 

 cumbers will grow in almost any kind of compost, but for winter, it 

 must be rather light and open. The more fibre in it the better, and 

 in putting it down it should be made into well-elevated mounds. If 

 planted early in September, growth will not be so rapid as at mid- 

 summer, but by the middle of October they will be strong plants, 

 showing fruit ; and if the foliage is kept clean, the roots consistently 

 watered, and only a very few fruit allowed to swell at once. Cucum- 

 bers all winter may be depended on. For this. Telegraph is a 

 variety we have never seen equalled. 



Coming to more common and easier-grown things from the kitchen- 

 garden, much salading may be had far into the winter, and sometimes 

 right through it. Amongst these. Lettuce and Endive are always im- 

 portant. The two may be grown fairly well on almost any piece of soil. 

 In summer, rich ground adds to their quality ; but for autumn and 

 winter, I think rather poor soil is best. In very rich soil they make 

 much soft growth which cold and wet would soon cause to decay, 

 but when grown more hardy, this does not so readily occur. Our 

 winter Lettuce and Endive are generally planted on our south and 

 other borders, after Potatoes, Cauliflowers, Carrots, Turnips, ifcc, and 

 before sowing or planting w^e never put any additional manure after 

 these crops. Neither do we dig or fork the ground, as firm ground 

 is not so likely to cause w^atery growth. A hoe and rake over is all 

 the preparation the ground gets. Of all positions we prefer a south 

 border with a sharp incline for winter Lettuce. Here they always 

 grow hardy and robust, and are not so liable to injury from the 

 Aveather as in shaded corners. The seed of autumn and winter Lettuce 

 should be sown at once, and another sov/ing in mild parts may take 

 place a few weeks hence. Sutton's Champion Brown, Hardy Brown 

 Cos, and the green Hammersmith are the best winter Lettuce, and the 

 Batavian and green curled are excellent Endives. The seed may be 

 sown in lines a foot or more apart, and when the plants are large 

 enough to transplant, a crop may be left in the seed-row^s and the 

 others replanted elsewhere. In frames, and under other kinds of pro- 



