354 tup: gardener. [Aug. 



young shoots, and so keeping them thin and close to the main rods. 

 When they do get long, thinning out and shortening back should be 

 done gradually and intelligently. 



Trees on Walls. — We would make the same subdivision here as 

 among trees which are to be grown in orchards, in quarters by them- 

 selves, or in rows in the kitchen-garden. For villa or cottage gardens, 

 we think that medium-sized trees on walls as well as in the open are 

 most suitable. However, we, in all cases, are guided by circumstances, 

 and it frequently happens that there are walls in even small gardens 

 which require the largest-growing kinds ; in other cases only the very 

 smallest are suitable. We remember being shown by a villa-owner 

 the most fruitful Jargonelle Pear we ever saw. It was planted against, 

 and wholly covered, the gable of a two-storey warehouse. It had a 

 great depth of soil to revel in, although a macadamised road lay right 

 over its root. The training and pruning had been of the most free-and- 

 easy kind, and would have disgusted a gardener with trim-training 

 ideas ; but the result was a very large healthy tree, bearing an enormous 

 quantity of splendid fruit. Hundreds, thousands of gables and other 

 high walls are covered with fruit-trees which are highly ornamental, 

 and profitable into the bargain, and better ornaments need not be 

 wished. 



Large Trees on High Walls. — Wherever there are walls over 12 feet 

 high, trees grafted on the free stock should be chosen, for they will 

 prove most satisfactory in the end. The test kind of trees to plant in 

 such situations are those that have been partially trained for walls. 

 Such trees are to be had at most nurseries. Failing these, young ones 

 should be selected. They will require cutting back in spring, to 

 induce as many shoots to push as will lay a proper foundation for the 

 tree. Endeavours should be made to fill the lower part of the wall 

 properly with healthy growth. Pruning, pinching, and training must 

 be done on the very same principle as we have laid down for the trees 

 in the open quarters. In shortening back leading shoots in winter, 

 care should be taken that the cuts are made above buds pointing in 

 the direction where the shoots are desired to be. Shoots which grow 

 straight out from the wall should always be pinched or pruned back, 

 and only those which grow from the sides of the branches encouraged 

 to form the permanent branches. In laying in shoots, take care that 

 they point straight outwards from the stem. It is also always best to 

 lay in supplementary shoots (when such are necessary) from the upjyer 

 sides of the main branches, for then a regular placing of the branches 

 is more easy and the ultimate appearance better. Branches should 

 always be laid in so that, no matter how far they may be carried, they 

 may never cross. Not only is a regularly trained tree more pleasing to 

 the eye, but when the training is not regular, the branches are sometimes 

 close together and sometimes widely apart ; so some parts of the tree 

 are overcrowded, and some parts of the wall are bare. 



