i88i.] FRUIT-CULTURE. 355 



We think that, all things considered, fan-trained trees are best for 

 everybody, but particularly so for amateurs. For dwarfs against low 

 walls, trees vertically or obliquely trained may be better, but for 

 medium or large sized ones fan-trained trees are best. For high walls, 

 wherg the soil is deep and good, and healthily growing trees are chosen, 

 horizontally trained trees are very good, and when the training is well 

 done are very handsome. In training horizontal trees the leader must 

 be cut back annually, so that their shoots may start — one for a fresh 

 leader, and two for nailing straight outwards. It is well at first to 

 allow the lower branches to rise towards their points at an angle of 45° 

 for a time. If laid out horizontally they will grow very slowly, and 

 ultimately fail to grow at all, for the upper half of the trees wdll natur- 

 ally draw off the sap. This is one of the advantages of fan-training. 

 However, if the lower branches are allowed to rise in the manner we 

 have recommended, they will make a fair growth, and when they are 

 grown enough to fill the space they are required to fill, they may be 

 then depressed. It is a good rule to allow the lower branches 

 to leave the main stem at an upward angle, although the side branches 

 are to be finally fixed liorizontally. This angle should approach nearer 

 and nearer a right angle, until the upper tier of branches strike straight 

 out at right angles from the stem. This will do much to prevent the 

 upper branches appropriating the lion's share of the sap, to the im- 

 poverishment of the lower ones. 



In very favourable soils such trees, especially if they are ulti- 

 mately to attain a large size, may be planted and the roots never 

 disturbed more. In by far the greater number of cases it will be more 

 satisfactory if the roots are looked after. One of the modern improve- 

 ments in gardening is the looking after tree-roots as well as the tops ; 

 and, as a plain matter of fact, it is more important. Nice training, skil- 

 ful pruning, and other above-ground operations, are well enough, but are 

 only half the battle. Roots do mischief, and that continually, if they 

 get away into bad soil. Where no bad soil is, they may be safely 

 let alone ; when it is all bad except a thin upper crust, measures must 

 be taken to keep the roots out of it. The old plan was to concrete, 

 pave, or cement the bottoms of the fruit-tree borders, but it cost a 

 great deal of money and labour. Neither is it quite necessary, although 

 certainly a good plan — let us give our forefathers justice ; for the 

 modern plan of lifting down-going roots and laying them near the 

 surface is as good if not a better plan. We have advised the doing of 

 this before, and need not repeat it ; only, it is necessary to insure 

 first-rate success, so we again draw attention to it. A fairly vigorous 

 growth must be kept up from first to last, by letting alone, — by 

 careful lifting and raising of roots, — and by mulchings of manure 

 and manure-water, if need be. Lifting and root-pruning — shorten- 

 ing back long naked roots — has one great thing to recommend 

 it besides keeping the trees healthy, by only allowing the roots to 



