iSSi.] FRUIT-CULTURE. 509 



The warmest places on the walls should be accorded to Peaches, for want of 

 heat is the reason why they fail in most seasons, as the wood does not ripen 

 well, and therefore the trees are perpetually subjected to curl, or mildew, or 

 blister, or some other troublesome disease, which often spoils, and sometimes 

 destroys, trees in the open air. 



A good border of deep soil is another necessity ; for a heavy soil on a wet 

 bottom, or a very thin soil on a gravelly bottom, does not suit them at all. If 

 necessary, drain the borders thoroughly, and deepen the soil to 2 feet. If 

 it is heavy, lighten it by replacing it altogether, or mixing in light soil or 

 other lightening material. If very light, add heavy soil, if it can at all be got. 

 The soil ought to be moderately rich, but not enriched by rank manure, for 

 such induces a growth not easily ripened, and this is the main thing to avoid. 

 A little hot-lime is a good thing to mix with the soil ; and for manure, a mod- 

 erate dressing of inch bones should be given. 



Peach-trees are budded for the most part on Plum-stocks ; and of course the 

 roots can be managed in the same way as Plums. It is very desirable to keep 

 the roots fibry and near the warm surface, for on this a good deal depends — 

 in fact it often constitutes the diiference between failure and success. 



Training should be done as we have advised for Morello Cherries. Disbud- 

 ding generally takes the place of pinching in this case. Disbudding is just 

 rubbing otf the buds, when they have grown an inch, which would furnish shoots 

 in places where they would not be wanted. It is a simple process, and easily 

 learnt, and although some do not practise it, all our best gardeners do. In 

 the case of young trees, which have not filled their places, cutting out is not 

 proper; and, when young strong shoots are to be disbudded, it may be neces- 

 ary to leave two or three buds to develop, instead of only one or two. But 

 outdoor trees should bs prevented, by lifting and root-pruning if need be, 

 from making wood over a foot long ; for short sturdy growths are always more 

 fruitful and healthy than strong, sappy, half-ripened ones. The case is some- 

 what different under glass. 



"When pinching is properly done, winter-pruning is reduced to a minimum, 

 and, when the wood is well ripened and short, only consists of cutting out the 

 old wood. Such shoots as we have said are best should not be pruned back 

 at all, although some people do it. Ill-ripened shoots, which have got spoilt by 

 winter's frost, should be cut back to sound wood. In doing this, care should 

 be taken to cut to a growing bud, for most of the buds on good wood will be 

 flowered over. These are round and plump, and often in pairs ; and when this 

 is the case, there is sure to be a narrow-pointed wood- bud between them. Cut 

 to this. The pruning and fastening of the shoots may be left over till March ; 

 for then it will be seen what wood needs pruning off, and no mistake can be 

 made among the buds, for the flower ones will be showing pink. 



The blossoms when open, and the fruit when newly set, are often destroyed 

 by spring frosts. These same spring frosts are, in many districts, almost all 

 that makes fruit uncertain. Many plans are taken to ward these off, but the 

 only really successful ones are glass roofs and hot-water pipes. Still, a frost 

 of only a night's duration may be defied, if the trees are covered with some 

 protecting material. Common fish-nets, such as are used for protecting the 

 autumn fruits from the birds, when doubled and put on a foot or two clear of 

 the trees, are often quite enough. Frigi-domo and other nettings are even 

 better ; and for small trees, mats, packsheets, &c., may be quite suliicient. If 

 the frost is keeu and the trees exposed to wind, and if it lasts for some 

 days, these often prove ineffectual, and sometimes as bad as the frost; for 



