458 THE GARDENER. [Oct. 



which may not be termed labour in vain. Thorough staking is very essential; 

 the wires forming a cone placed round the stem, which is well padded with 

 cloth, hay, &c., and fixed so that the one prevents the other from drawing the 

 tree from its position. To keep the plant entirely independent of wind, is 

 the best method we know of keeping tops and roots secure. 



FLOWER-GARDEN. 



The planting of bulbs such as Hyacinths, Narcissus, Crocuses, Jonquils, 

 Scillas, Daffodils, Early Tulips, Snowdrops, &c., maybe done before end of 

 the month. All do well in rich, well-drained, deeply cultivated ground; but 

 these would not be too late if planted next month. Some prefer plantations 

 made of them at dilTerent periods. Plants for spring gardening may be plant- 

 ed as early as circumstances will allow. Arabis, Alyssum, Aubrietias, Daisies, 

 Pansies, Chrysanthemums, where they do well in borders under protection, 

 may be planted, but they are seldom seen presentable out of doors. Calceo- 

 larias, Pansies, and other plants of a hardy character, may be propagated in 

 pits or frames. Pansies often do well under hand-lights and temporary lights, 

 but a slight protection during severe weather is of great advantage to them, 

 and they can be hardened in spring and planted out strong-flowering plants. 

 Ours planted last April are now full of flowers. The kinds are, Purity, White, 

 Tory, Purple, Sir Walter Scott, Blue, Golden Queen, Blue Cap, and some 

 others. They are in extra-rich soil, deeply cultivated, and well stirred on 

 the surface to keep out drought. They were only watered once. Sedums 

 of sorts, Cerastium, Menthas, Ajuga reptans and variegata, Aralias of sorts, 

 and similar hardy plants, may be placed in a border to have them in quantity 

 at planting time. Lifting and potting of flowering-plants of the more tender 

 class may now be done. Frost may come at any time ; last season it was 

 very severe at first, and caused losses to many. Even tender plants in frames 

 are not safe. Alternantheras, Iresines, Heliotropes, and suchlike, should be 

 made safe at night. If the stock of Pelargoniums is not abundant, a number 

 of old plants may be lifted : they do well for centres. Strip off plenty of 

 leaves to prevent damping. Trim in the roots a little, and pot in sandy loam, 

 using as small pots as possible. Variegated, bronzes, and tricolors may have 

 extra care taken with them; a little dry heat with plenty of air would be 

 of service in starting new roots. Bottom-heat in a mild form would aid 

 them greatly. Store all cuttings and plants in quarters free from damp. 

 Hedge-cutting, turfing, walk-repairing, may be pushed forward. Prepare 

 ground for Hoses by trenching and manuring. 



PLANT-STRUCTURES. 



Plants to be wintered under glass should all be safe from frost, neatly ar- 

 ranged in their winter quarters, clean and orderly. However hardy any 

 plants in pots are (which have to stand the tear and wear of forcing), they 

 should at least have protection in severe weather. If in pits under glass- 

 lights so much the better. The whole stock of Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Roses 

 (China, Noisette, and Teas, especially), Lilacs, Kalmias, Deutzias, Dielytras, 

 bulbs of sorts, may be potted for succession. Syringas, Cherries, double 

 and single, Kalmias, Lily of the Valley, and others well known, should be ar- 

 ranged in lots, in order to select from the earliest of the stock suitable plants 

 for forcing, and this work will soon require attention. Where a gay conser- 

 vatory and cut-flowers are matters of great request. Chrysanthemums should 

 now be all secure by stakes, and taken under glass to flower, giving them 



