i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 537 



Where any show signs of canker, or shoots dying back, it is certain that 

 they are in unhealthy soil. The feeders may have penetrated into a depth far 

 from heat and air, and are perishing. Bringing them up to the surface, 

 spreading them out nicely into fresh soil, covering 6 inches, and mulching 

 with manure, will do much towards restoring them, and keeping them 

 healthy and fruitful. If brickbats, stones, or concrete are used to prevent 

 the roots from going downwards at planting, much labour may be saved in 

 future. We have lifted a wall of Apricots, Plums, and Cherries this autumn ; 

 and under them'were placed a quantity of broken brick, lime-rubbish, and turfy 

 soil on the top of it. All are well covered with clean loam, and mulched to 

 keep out frost and drought. Such trees ought to go on for many years with- 

 out showing any signs of gross barren wood ; and such wood on Apricots is at 

 all times in danger of dying off. The Apricot is one of the hardiest trees 

 known, and one which requires most fresh air; but when the roots get into 

 soil such as is well known to be foreign to them — cold wet clay, for example 

 — " dying oflf " may be seen at any time. We often have remarked that they 

 may be met with doing well year after year with no skilled training, but then 

 the roots are where they have their natural food, and make up for a deal 

 of neglect otherwise. By all means train as elegantly and skilfully as 

 possible. While doing the one thing, see that the primary requirements 

 (that of the roots) are not neglected. Firm, rocky soil, with a fair amount of 

 lime in it, is very suitable to Apricots ; in fact, all stone-fruits do well in 

 such soil. All bush-fruits may be pruned and mulched with good manure. 

 Where there are signs of exhaustion in the bushes, they should be lifted and 

 planted in good soil well enriched. Gooseberries do well with such a change. 

 When pruning bush-fruits it is well to remove a few of the older branches 

 every year, and introduce a number of young ones. The plants are then 

 always in vigour, and fit for their work. It is of much importance to trees to 

 scrape moss or other vegetation from their,, bark, and a good washing of 

 lime, and some soot to darken it, applied to destroy insects. A good dressing of 

 rich soil and manure may be given after old inert soil is removed. The drain- 

 ing of orchards or gardens for benefiting fruit-trees should have attention at 

 earliest convenience. Do no work of this kind without a just reason : to 

 do it at random is worse than useless, 



FLOWER-GARDEN. 



Climbers on walls and wire-work should be regulated, and what training 

 is required may be done without delay. It would be diflBcult to state how all 

 plants should be pruned, but as a general principle, none should be allowed 

 to become crowded or matted. Some kinds, such as Jasmines, do well 

 when spurred ; others cannot be touched with the knife to be of any service, 

 except the whole of the old shoots are cut out and replaced with young ones ; 

 but to leave them alone is to allow them to run wild and become worthless. 

 It is better to fix nails to remain permanently, and tie the branches to them, than 

 to use shreds, and be driving nails often. Wires to train climbers to are 

 the most economical, and always most sightly. 



The planting of Crocus, Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissus, Jonquils, Scillas, and 

 other bulbs, should be finished as early as possible ; and all plants considered 

 in danger of being injured by frost should be protected by Ferns or fine coal- 

 ashee. Old tan is useful for the purpose. Clean, trim, and replant herba- 

 ceous plants not already done. Those which have been marked early in the 



