388 THE GARDENER. [Sept. 



It is useless to attempt growing Apricots on a strong clayey loam, 

 and in gardens where this naturally abounds, it is absolutely neces- 

 sary to excavate the border to a depth of 3 or 4 feet, to drain well, 

 and refill with a much lighter compost, employing as much turf cut 

 from a light soil as possible. This was performed here many years 

 ago, and the Apricots have well repaid the outlay. In a large 

 garden near here, where this has not been carried out, the trees in a 

 short time invariably fail. Where the soil is naturally sandy and 

 open, but little preparation is needed, though it is advisable to drain 

 and to trench the ground. But little manure should be employed for 

 the young trees, as a too free use of this induces an objectionable coarse- 

 ness of growth. When in full bearing, or if the trees appear impover- 

 ished, freely fork in manure in the autumn or early winter, and mulch 

 heavily in the spring. No particular site is necessary, at least in the 

 more southern counties. Competent authorities recommend a south 

 aspect for the Apricot in the more northern parts of Great Britain, 

 and somewhat cooler sites in the more southern districts. Here, for 

 instance, there are strong fruitful trees growing against walls of west, 

 south-east, and south aspects ; those in the last situation being most 

 profitable, simply because the trees have the benefit of protection by 

 glass copings and curtains. (These copings are of great service, and 

 soon repay for original outlay. Sharp span-roofed houses, on Dr 

 Newington's model, would, if water was abundant, be always pre- 

 ferred, however, not only for Apricots, but also for Peaches, Nectarines, 

 Plums, and Cherries.) A hot and dry position is really unfavourable 

 to the production of extra -good fruit, as they are liable to ripen 

 prematurely and unevenly, the quality being inferior accordingly. 

 Where this is found to be the case, the roots should be heavily mulched 

 with manure in May ; receive copious waterings during the prevalence 

 of dry weather; and if a fish-net doubled, or blinds of canvas, frigi- 

 dom(>> or other shading material, be hung over the trees when bright 

 sunshine prevails at ripening time, it will equalise the ripening of the 

 fruit — that is to say, it will be less likely to mellow on the side most 

 exposed to the sun while yet hard on that next the wall. Some of the 

 most luscious fruit I have yet tasted were ripened under Russian mats, 

 which were hung over, but at a good distance from, the trees, to retard 

 ripening. 



During September and early in October the planting of Apricots 

 is best performed, and before they have shed their foliage, as they 

 will then form fresh rootlets, and to a certain extent be recovered for 

 a good start in the following spring. The varieties recommended for 

 the country generally are Early Moorpark, Large Early, Hemskirk, 

 and Moorpark. Apricots, more especially the Moorpark, after active 

 growth has commenced, are liable to suddenly lose large branches, to 

 the extent, frequently, of fully one-quarter of the tree. This is very 

 discouraging, the more so seeing how superior, according to my experi- 



