124 THE GARDENER. [March 



cultivation. Then again, Violets are supposed to love the shade of 

 trees, or at least situations where they are screened from strong 

 sun. No doubt there is an amount of truth in this, as far as 

 it refers to particular districts ; but in localities where the rainfall 

 is heavy and the sky not over bright for any lengthened period, 

 it would be a mistake to grow these plants much in the shade for 

 flowering in the open borders, much more for winter flowering in pots 

 or beds ; for although they may look in excellent condition as long as 

 mild weather continues, their leaves are not hardened, nor their crowns 

 in that advanced condition in which it is desirable to have them ; and 

 like other immatured plants when brought under the influence of 

 heat, they produce leaves instead of flowers. It is therefore import- 

 ant to remember that whilst Violets like a degree of shade, there is 

 a line to be drawn short of either extreme, especially with regard to 

 plants intended for winter flowering. 



Violets are increased annually from cuttings, and also from seed. The 

 old plants are lifted from the borders about the beginning of April, which 

 is the best time for propagating, as the young cuttings or runners soon 

 root afresh with increasing warmth in the soil, and under the growing 

 influence of April dews and showers. The cuttings will be found 

 numerous enough growing in the form of runners round the crowns 

 of the old plants ; these should be removed with a sharp knife, and 

 prepared for insertion into the soil by removing one or two of the 

 bottom leaves and making a clean cut across the joint which forms 

 the base of the cutting. There will also be numbers of the runners 

 found to have formed roots in the soil, and these should be set aside 

 by themselves. When a sufficient stock is prepared, a piece of rich 

 ground on a west border should be chosen for planting the cuttings, 

 a line should be laid across the border, and a shallow trench about 

 4 inches deep made with a spade ; this trench should be filled up with 

 leaf-mould mixed with sharp sand, into which the rooted portion of the 

 young stock should be planted, the roots being made firm in the soil 

 with the fingers. 



The lines may be about 6 inches apart, and the cuttings about 

 2 inches or 3 inches apart in the row. The unrooted portion of the 

 stock will be the better of a layer of sand being laid under their base, 

 which will hasten the rooting process and preserve the cuttings while 

 roots are being emitted ; and in the case of scarce or choice varieties, 

 it would be still better to have the cuttings protected by a cold frame 

 till once they have taken root — a process that will soon take place if 

 there is a growing atmosphere kept up within the frame, and the 

 plants are not allowed to suffer from blinks of strong sun. 



That portion of the stock which is but partially rooted and unpro- 

 tected will also require a supply of moisture when it is deficient in 

 the atmosphere, and be kept well watered at the root in case of dry 

 weather. When the plants are well rooted and fit to be handled, they 



