THE GARDENER. [March 



THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 



ASPARAGUS, RHUBARB, AND SEAKALE. 



As my purpose is to write for owners of small gardens, who employ only a 

 labourer, perhaps, to do the digging, &c., I will give them all the benefit I 

 can by treating, firstly, of those subjects which amateurs least understand and 

 have greatest difficulty in getting information about. 



Asparagus — This vegetable requires a light, deep, well-enriched soil to grow 

 it well. In cold or northern districts — more especially if the soil be very 

 heavy — it is apt to rot off in winter, and therefore is not adapted for grow- 

 ing in such situations. But most owners of gardens desire a little Aspara- 

 gus ; and for those who may be in a reasonably favourable situation for its pro- 

 duction, I offer the following remarks : — 



If the soil be heavy, some means must be taken to lighten it by mixing the 

 staple with sandy soil, or replacing it altogether to the depth of 18 inches at 

 the very least ; and if 3 feet, so much the better. Of course the ground must 

 be well drained. To prepare it, it must be trenched, and have a very liberal 

 addition of manure in autumn. During dry or frosty weather, re-trench it for 

 the purpose of thoroughly incorporating the manure. In April, mark the 

 ground off into beds 5 feet wide, with 2-feet alleys between them. Iff the 

 plants are to be raised from seed, sow it thinly in rows 18 inches apart; when 

 the plants come up, thin them the first season to 3 inches apart, taking out 

 every second plant the following year. Between these rows Spinach, Turnip, 

 Onion, Lettuce, and other dwarf crops may be grown the first two years, as 

 the Asparagus will not, until then, occupy the ground fully, and crops such as 

 these will do no harm. If preferred, the seed may be sown on a small bed, and 

 afterwards transplanted on permanent beds prepared as has been described. 

 Unless very well grown they may stand in the seed-bed for two years, as 

 Asparagus is about four years, under ordinary cultivation, in coming to perfec- 

 tion ; and two-year-old plants are generally good for planting. If sown where 

 they are to remain, they will not receive the check which transplanting gives ; 

 but many prefer growing them in seed-beds at about 5 inches square until they 

 are ready to transplant, and then they have the beds freshly prepared when 

 they are planted. When the grass dies down at the approach of winter, cut 

 it carefully over, and cover the beds with 2 or 3 inches of rotten dung. But 

 amateurs may purchase their plants and transplant them in beds as described, 

 and thus save the weariness of waiting for returns. The best time to plant is 

 in April, in cold, late districts ; and in March, in dry, warm ones, and just 

 as they are beginning to move. If home raised, lift the plants with a fork 

 very carefully, a few at a time, and plant them before they are much exposed 

 to the air ; if bought, leave them as little exposed to the weather as possible. 

 The best way of planting is to stretch the line where the rows are to be, and 

 beat the ground on both sides (as is done when Box edgings are laid), and then 

 cut a trench 6 inches deep along one side of it, and put the plants in with 

 their fibres spread out, and covered with well pulverised soil, keeping the 

 crowns 2 inches or so below the surface. When finished, give a good watering 

 if the weather be dry, and mulch slightly with rotten dung. If the garden be 

 exposed, it may be necessary to put in stakes, at distances of 4 feet, along each 

 row, and stretch on them three rows of string, to which each stalk should be 

 secured, as the wind may twist them over by the neck, and so destroy the 

 plants. Mulch in winter as before directed. 



