2G THE GARDENER. [Jan. 



ought to get a liberal manuring, according to its condition, and will then be fit 

 to grow tbe finest crop of Cauliflowers, Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, 

 Greens, Peas, P>eans, kc. Next year it should be turned over two spades deep, 

 remembering that most vegetables are gross feeders ; a good manuring ought to 

 be again given, and different crops put in the same ground. Potatoes, with a 

 light manuring applied during autumn ; Leeks, but heavily manured, and a 

 host of other thing-;, such as Turnips, Lettuces, and Salads generally, will come 

 in the second year, and will do well on ground so prepared. The third year 

 manure of ordinary description may be dispensed with, and tap-rooting vege- 

 tables will grow to the greatest perfection, such as Carrots and Parsnips. 

 Many recommend trenching the soil for these crops ; but when broken up 

 triennally as described, and when manure is withheld, except a drenching of 

 urine during frosty weather, I have always found cleaner and finer crops than 

 when otherwise treated. They grow cleaner because there is nothing in the 

 way of fresh manure to entice the roots into the formation of forks, and as the 

 real plant-food sinks downwards by the action of rain, there is a tendency in 

 the tap-roots of Carrots and Parsnips to follow it. Soil for Onions is best pre- 

 pared by trenching in autumn, keeping all the manure within a very few inches 

 of the top, where the roots can readily lay hold of it. One dose of urine while 

 the ground is frozen will prove of the greatest benefit to the crop, and so will a 

 sprinkling of wood-ashes. Indeed these two valuable matters may be applied 

 everywhere with great benefit if not overdone. 



For Rhubarb, soil should be trenched deeply and heavily manured — nothing 

 will prove of greater benefit to this crop than night-soil w r ell mixed with the 

 soil. But it ought to be applied some time before planting, so that its ammonia 

 may have time to permeate the whole body of the soil — otherwise roots coming 

 into contact with it are apt to be injured. The same remarks apply to Seakale. 

 "Where Asparagus is grown it requires a deep, free, well-drained soil, well 

 enriched with stable-yard manure and prepared by several turnings. But unless 

 the climate is all the better, I would scarcely advise the amateur to attempt 

 Asparagus culture, as it requires much labour and cost before it can be planted 

 at all ; then it is tw T o or three years before it yields, and if the soil is heavy, or 

 the situation exposed, ten chances to one but it is dead or the bed full of 

 blanks by that time. Still some of your readers may w T ish to try it, and to 

 them is offered the above remarks on the preparation of the soil, and its further 

 cultivation will be treated of by-and-by. For all ordinary bush-fruits, such 

 as Currants, Gooseberries, Rasps, &c, as well as Strawberries, soil prepared or 

 recommended for Cabbages, &c, will answer ; but it is best to plant these in 

 autumn — the Strawberries in August, September, and early in October; the 

 others in October and early in November. But the cultivation of these will be 

 more fully noticed in due course. 



The subjects here mentioned include the greater part of commonly cultivated 

 kitchen-garden plants. "Where special preparation of the soil is necessary for 

 special subjects, it will be noticed when these come to be considered. 



Plants for January. 



Peas. — A small sowing of Peas may be made some time during this month in 

 favourable localities, should the weather be open and the soil in good condition, 

 otherwise there is no gain in being early ; and those with small gardens had 

 better wait until the soil is in good condition. The best kinds for sowing thus 

 early are First Crop or Ringleader, Kentish Invicta (rather more tender than the 

 first, and apt to rot on wet soil if sown too early— otherwise an excellent Pea), 



