228 THE GARDENER. [May 



THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 



CELERY AND SALADS GENERALLY. 



Celery — Preparing the Trenches. — To grow Celery to perfection, rich soil is essen- 

 tial. Indeed Celery grows best in decayed manure, a year old or so. It is 

 generally grown in trenches or beds sunk below the surface, by taking out the 

 soil and building it neatly on either side of the trench, — the earth thus stored 

 up to be used for blanching the plants after they have grown sufficiently. It 

 is best to prepare the trenches only a short time before planting ; because 

 in spring the frosts cause much of the earth to fall in, and part of the work 

 has to be done over again. Particular care must be taken to beat the earth 

 firmly on either side to prevent its falling back into the trenches again hy 

 the action of the weather. Some prefer single trenches ; others prefer 

 " beds." We will describe both methods. Single trenches are made 1 foot 

 8 inches wide and 1 foot deep. When more trenches than one are required, 

 allow 3 feet between them. In forming them, run the line along each side of 

 the trenches, and cut close down the inside of the line the full depth of the 

 spade. In throwing the earth out, keep it close by the side of the trench. 

 Cut the trench perpendicularly, and slope off the loose earth at an angle of 

 45° or so, beating it neatly, so that it may keep its place. Do not lay it down 

 to a greater depth than 6 or 8 inches, and make it flat on the top, as it will 

 do for growing small Salads on. The spaces between the trenches are to be 

 piled up with earth in the same way. Break the earth fine, and smooth it 

 over nicely. Lettuce, Radishes, Mustard and Cress, &c, may be sown on the 

 ridges, and they will all be removed before the earth is required for blanch- 

 ing the Celery. After the trenches are dug they will require manuring, 

 and there is nothing better than well-decayed stable-yard manure. Put 6 

 inches of this in the bottom of the trench, and if the soil be heavy and wet, an 

 inch of sand. But in heavy wet soils it is best to make very shallow trenches 

 and fill them to the brim with a compost of manure and some light soil, or a 

 little sand, if light earth cannot be got. Of course the earth for blanching has 

 to be dug from the sides, but this leaves deep drains, and the Celery is then 

 raised on ridges, which is in its favour in heavy or wet ground. In ordinary 

 soil, after the manure is in the trench, mix it with some of the soil in the 

 bottom of the trench, and leave until planting time. Such trenches, in light 

 dry soils, favour the retention of moisture about the roots of the plants, and 

 moisture they must have or they will not grow satisfactorily, Celery being a 

 native of damp situations. At the same time too much wet, in winter especi- 

 ally, rots it, and hence the reason for planting on the surface on heavy wet 

 soils. The " bed " system of growing is merely an extension of the trench, 

 and is a good enough plan in light dry soils, especially when the crop is to be 

 cleared off early in autumn; but as it presents a wider, flatter surface, the 

 rain is not thrown off as in the trench system, and hence Celery is more liable 

 to rot than in beds. Beds generally contaiu four rows of Celery, while 

 trenches as a rule contain one, and seldom more than two ; and in earthing 

 up those in trenches, if the heads of the Celery are inclined slightly inwards, 

 the earth which is used to blanch them may be built so as to present a thin 

 ridge top, which helps to keep the plants and soil drier than in the case of 

 beds. Frequently only one row is planted in the trench, but we prefer two, 

 as double the quantity is produced with only a little more room, labour, and 

 manure. The chief recommendation which can be given to the bed system is 



