1879.] HARDY FRUITS. 450 



fellow, and a current of air kept passing through the house. Where specimens 

 are expected to be kept entirely sound, they may be kept thinly on the shelf ; 

 but this is by no means indispensable. When the fruits have " sweated," the 

 ventilators need be opened very seldom. Frequent examinations of the fruit 

 should be made, to see that none are decaying : where there is one left others 

 will soon follow. There are likely to be many fruits of inferior quality this 

 year, badly ripened, that will not keep. Some kinds will not be ready for 

 gathering till November. All trees on walls should be aided in the ripening 

 process where they are inclined to be late. A new broom swept lightly 

 over walls would take away many loose leaves which obstruct the action of 

 light and air. All late growths should be well trimmed off, and if the tree 

 goes on producing young wood, lift the roots at one side of the tree. Fibres, 

 when formed, are conducive to fruit-tree ripening, and fruit in abundance may 

 then be expected. Now is the time to prepare for next season's supply. Gross, 

 sappy trees may be expected to fail in setting a crop. The root-lifting, as 

 formerly advised, must be a matter of care, as the cutting at random of healthy 

 feeders is a positive evil : only long, rambling, and naked thongs should be 

 cut off, and all fibres placed out flat in genial soil. The whole may be made 

 firm, and finished neatly over the surface. 



Planting may be set about without delay. Large holes, in the case of trees 

 isolated, may be formed ; but where plantations are formed thickly, a general 

 trenching may be made, and a layer of brick-rubbish under the trees, about a 

 foot from the surface, and the w T hole firmly rammed, will do much to save the 

 trees from cankering, and act as an obstruction to tap-roots. Deep planting 

 (unless on exceptionally dry and elevated ground) is to be avoided. First have 

 the necessary soil at hand, and fill the hole with it within 6 inches of the 

 surface ; or in the case of low, damp situations, the roots may be level with 

 the surrounding soil. Place a stake firmly into the ground for Standards (dwarf 

 trees may not require props), and place the stem within a few inches of the 

 stake. Wrap a piece of cloth round the stake, to save the bark of the tree ; 

 and before the ties are put on, place a piece of cloth or leather between the 

 twine and the bark. Make the stem secure to the stake, which should be as 

 tall as the tree. Other systems of staking are practised, as may be seen among 

 the fruit-orchards around us ; but we prefer the former for trees which have no 

 balls of earth at their roots. Leave cutting of newly-planted trees till the end 

 of winter. Instead of choosing large collections of kinds of fruit, it is better 

 to select those which are fruitful and suitable to the district — and they might 

 be planted in quantity. As an example, we have rows of young trees just bear- 

 ing their first crop of fruit : they were young maidens two years ago. Among 

 a large collection of Apples, we have nearly three-fourths of them Lord Suffield, 

 Stirling Castle, Cellini, Worcestershire Pearmain, Margil, and a few others. 

 These may be expected every year to have plenty of fruit on them. Planta- 

 tions of Rasps may have all the old rods cut out, if not already done. The 

 rods for next year's supply should not be crowded. Lift canes for planting in 

 new ground. Gooseberry and Currant cuttings may be taken off, tied in small 

 bundles, according to name, till time allows them to be made. Strawberry 

 runners may be lifted and placed in store-beds, according to name. They make 

 good plantations in spring to give runners for forcing. The beds should be 

 thoroughly cleaned, leaving the plants standing individually, when manure 

 may be placed among them. The roots should be kept entire. M. T. 



